My first rebuild
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
*IF* you have to get crank turned..and *IF* you buy new pistons...and *IF* you have to pay to press those pistons on and off the rods and *IF* you decide to rebuild the old rods...and *IF* you decide to rebalance it all....I hate to say it but you're getting real close to just getting a basic 383 kit with a cast crank that is already balanced.
That said...from what I could see of the bearings..nothing looked too bad. Get the cylinders ck'd..maybe you can just run a hone through them (with TQ plates if possible-costs more but worth it), get some decent rings and bearings and put it back together.
You can get just one piston and weight will be close enough to not cause issues with balance..they weren't close at all from the factory anyway. But pay close attention to the piston heights. Many less expensive aftermarket pistons are made shorter to allow for block decking and they end up .040" or more below the deck which kills compression.
I'll admit to dropping one back when I was about 19 years old while pressing it on the rod. It was a Sunday and the only other piston I could find was a TRW forged flat top. I stuck it in there with the other 7 cast ones and it ran great for years. Balance was close enough. I also had a set of early GM *Turbo* race heads on it and a solid flat tappet...spun it way higher than I should have for sure!
I won't even mention that it also had a rear main cap off another engine. When I tore it down someone had used an oil pump bolt that was too short and it had barely held pump on and pulled the first few threads out of the cap. Pulled a cap off another engine...didn't have time/$$ to worry about line bore.
Also replaced many a rod bolt without once ever checking them for whether they had changed the rod bore size.
Wow....the joys of innocence. Back then I didn't know all that could happen. I beat on that stuff like crazy and somehow it survived just fine!
JIM
That said...from what I could see of the bearings..nothing looked too bad. Get the cylinders ck'd..maybe you can just run a hone through them (with TQ plates if possible-costs more but worth it), get some decent rings and bearings and put it back together.
You can get just one piston and weight will be close enough to not cause issues with balance..they weren't close at all from the factory anyway. But pay close attention to the piston heights. Many less expensive aftermarket pistons are made shorter to allow for block decking and they end up .040" or more below the deck which kills compression.
I'll admit to dropping one back when I was about 19 years old while pressing it on the rod. It was a Sunday and the only other piston I could find was a TRW forged flat top. I stuck it in there with the other 7 cast ones and it ran great for years. Balance was close enough. I also had a set of early GM *Turbo* race heads on it and a solid flat tappet...spun it way higher than I should have for sure!
I won't even mention that it also had a rear main cap off another engine. When I tore it down someone had used an oil pump bolt that was too short and it had barely held pump on and pulled the first few threads out of the cap. Pulled a cap off another engine...didn't have time/$$ to worry about line bore.
Also replaced many a rod bolt without once ever checking them for whether they had changed the rod bore size.
Wow....the joys of innocence. Back then I didn't know all that could happen. I beat on that stuff like crazy and somehow it survived just fine!
JIM
Again, what 427Hotrod just posted is typical of the kind of abuse that the small-block Chevy was designed to absorb. There was a thread posted awhile back where somebody had one bank of pistons mounted backwards on the rods and it was running fine when he took it apart. I once built a perfectly-running SBC from a mismatched block and piston set that a friend dropped in my driveway on a trailer. Cleaned it up, new cam/lifters/chain, cheapo valve grind, rings & bearings, and it ran like the proverbial top. No race motor, but a strong, leak-free, reliable runner.
So....get your stuff down to the machine shop,let us know what they find out, and go from there.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,233
Likes: 657
From: Thunder Bay
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,233
Likes: 657
From: Thunder Bay
Fatcat, I once dropped a relatively expensive bottle of scotch right in the parking lot outside the liquor store.
Stuff like that happens when you're not focused. I once poured oil into an engine without putting the drain bolt back in. I once installed a camshaft in a Pontiac 400 upside down (on a pontiac, the timing marks both go up, instead of top and bottom like a chevy, something like that, it was a long time ago) Just a few weeks ago, I rebuilt a Holley carb, and forgot to put the gasket on the power valve. Not really sure how that one got past me, but my point is this: All these things have one thing in common.......I only did them once. Everybody makes mistakes, but smart people learn something from them, that's all.
The Pontiac 400 is kind of a funny story, we installed the cam, lining up the dots like you would on a chevy, 'cause we none of us knew any better, and when we went to try to start it, it was sucking air in through the exhaust pipes, and blowing it out through the carb, somehow! it didn't take us long to figure out what we had done wrong, and I learned a valuable lesson that day: Always read the instructions!!!!
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
Stuff like that happens when you're not focused. I once poured oil into an engine without putting the drain bolt back in. I once installed a camshaft in a Pontiac 400 upside down (on a pontiac, the timing marks both go up, instead of top and bottom like a chevy, something like that, it was a long time ago) Just a few weeks ago, I rebuilt a Holley carb, and forgot to put the gasket on the power valve. Not really sure how that one got past me, but my point is this: All these things have one thing in common.......I only did them once. Everybody makes mistakes, but smart people learn something from them, that's all. The Pontiac 400 is kind of a funny story, we installed the cam, lining up the dots like you would on a chevy, 'cause we none of us knew any better, and when we went to try to start it, it was sucking air in through the exhaust pipes, and blowing it out through the carb, somehow! it didn't take us long to figure out what we had done wrong, and I learned a valuable lesson that day: Always read the instructions!!!!
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
I can't believe somebody else is a dumb as I am! I once did the same thing - poured four quarts of oil right through an engine! Only did it once though (so far).
Somebody should start a thread where we can all share all the dumb things we have done over the years.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Not that I was told of or have found evidence of but the guy who sold it to me thought it had the original motor too. He is a forum member so I believe he really thought that.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Interesting note though, the car pulls to the right pretty bad. I haven't had it aligned because I wanted to wait until I finished the work I have planned.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,018
Likes: 2,262
From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
Looks like those upper control arm bushings are shot. Lowers maybe the same?
Having shims is a good thing. But when wear of stuff..or bending things cause negative camber, removing shims can get it closer. If the bushings are really worn it can cause this.
Looks like time to freshen up control arm bushings and then get things aligned. Ck the mounts on the frame where the arms attach (upper and lower) for cracks or bends. Fairly common.
JIM
Having shims is a good thing. But when wear of stuff..or bending things cause negative camber, removing shims can get it closer. If the bushings are really worn it can cause this.
Looks like time to freshen up control arm bushings and then get things aligned. Ck the mounts on the frame where the arms attach (upper and lower) for cracks or bends. Fairly common.
JIM
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Looks like those upper control arm bushings are shot. Lowers maybe the same?
Having shims is a good thing. But when wear of stuff..or bending things cause negative camber, removing shims can get it closer. If the bushings are really worn it can cause this.
Looks like time to freshen up control arm bushings and then get things aligned. Ck the mounts on the frame where the arms attach (upper and lower) for cracks or bends. Fairly common.
JIM
Having shims is a good thing. But when wear of stuff..or bending things cause negative camber, removing shims can get it closer. If the bushings are really worn it can cause this.
Looks like time to freshen up control arm bushings and then get things aligned. Ck the mounts on the frame where the arms attach (upper and lower) for cracks or bends. Fairly common.
JIM
Yes the bushings are shot. I pulled the drivers side wheel off tonight and plan to pull the control arms off this week. Can I get bushings at a local store or do I need to order them? Also I am freshening up the engine compartment and it appears to be a great time to do this kind of work at the same time while I wait to get the engine checked out and order parts. When I put in the new bushings what do I do with those shims? Leave them in? ALso curious! Do I have to take the springs off to do this? I am a little scared of that.
Last edited by FatCat; Nov 25, 2012 at 10:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
BTW here are few parts that are missing or need replaced. Can you guys tell me where to get them?
The driver side is completely gone. You know drwet, I am starting to suspect the car has been hit before on that side.
I need to find or make these covers for both sides. Any ideas here guys?
Thanks!
The driver side is completely gone. You know drwet, I am starting to suspect the car has been hit before on that side.
I need to find or make these covers for both sides. Any ideas here guys?
Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,233
Likes: 657
From: Thunder Bay
Those are known as A-arm flaps or dust covers and are available from any of the major suppliers. Run about $15-20 a pair, or you can buy a complete engine compartment seal kit for about $50. Willcox, Corvette Central, Zip. They will all be able to help you out. Pick your favorite.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Those are known as A-arm flaps or dust covers and are available from any of the major suppliers. Run about $15-20 a pair, or you can buy a complete engine compartment seal kit for about $50. Willcox, Corvette Central, Zip. They will all be able to help you out. Pick your favorite.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,865
Likes: 1
From: I may be getting old but I refuse to grow up
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
unless the brake lines and/or fuel lines are rusted out and leaking - leave them be. You'll need the money for the front end work.
in general, lots of shims are no problem, no shims are a problem.
in general, lots of shims are no problem, no shims are a problem.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
I just did my frontend this past summer. Use amazon and rock auto for ball joints (moog) and any Prothane, PST, ect... Bushing company will do. Take the control arms off you'll need a spring compressor because the engine is out. Take your arms to any good shop and they'll take out the old and install the new for under a $100.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
I just did my frontend this past summer. Use amazon and rock auto for ball joints (moog) and any Prothane, PST, ect... Bushing company will do. Take the control arms off you'll need a spring compressor because the engine is out. Take your arms to any good shop and they'll take out the old and install the new for under a $100.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Meeting with the machine shop Thurs evening. The guy who does our work at the shop is going to look it over and advise me from there. I will let you guys know! Thanks!
Last edited by FatCat; Nov 26, 2012 at 03:10 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Take notes when you talk to the machine shop guy, Fatcat, we are going to want to know what he tells you. You may not want to tell him that you are dealing with a bunch of guys on a forum, he may think "Oh, jeez! This kid is hooked up with a buncha knuckleheads on the internet who are gonna fill his head with a buncha BS! I don't need this crap!". Then again, he may end up being a member, who knows?
It's important that you understand what the machinist is telling you. If he tells you something, and you have no idea what he is talking about, don't just nod your head and smile because you don't want to look stupid. Ask him, politely and respectfully, to explain what it means. If he tries to explain and you still don't get it, then nod your head ans smile, write it down,and we'll try to figure it out here, OK? Good luck!
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
It's important that you understand what the machinist is telling you. If he tells you something, and you have no idea what he is talking about, don't just nod your head and smile because you don't want to look stupid. Ask him, politely and respectfully, to explain what it means. If he tries to explain and you still don't get it, then nod your head ans smile, write it down,and we'll try to figure it out here, OK? Good luck!
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
Take notes when you talk to the machine shop guy, Fatcat, we are going to want to know what he tells you. You may not want to tell him that you are dealing with a bunch of guys on a forum, he may think "Oh, jeez! This kid is hooked up with a buncha knuckleheads on the internet who are gonna fill his head with a buncha BS! I don't need this crap!". Then again, he may end up being a member, who knows?
It's important that you understand what the machinist is telling you. If he tells you something, and you have no idea what he is talking about, don't just nod your head and smile because you don't want to look stupid. Ask him, politely and respectfully, to explain what it means. If he tries to explain and you still don't get it, then nod your head ans smile, write it down,and we'll try to figure it out here, OK? Good luck!
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
It's important that you understand what the machinist is telling you. If he tells you something, and you have no idea what he is talking about, don't just nod your head and smile because you don't want to look stupid. Ask him, politely and respectfully, to explain what it means. If he tries to explain and you still don't get it, then nod your head ans smile, write it down,and we'll try to figure it out here, OK? Good luck!
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Take notes when you talk to the machine shop guy, Fatcat, we are going to want to know what he tells you. You may not want to tell him that you are dealing with a bunch of guys on a forum, he may think "Oh, jeez! This kid is hooked up with a buncha knuckleheads on the internet who are gonna fill his head with a buncha BS! I don't need this crap!". Then again, he may end up being a member, who knows?
It's important that you understand what the machinist is telling you. If he tells you something, and you have no idea what he is talking about, don't just nod your head and smile because you don't want to look stupid. Ask him, politely and respectfully, to explain what it means. If he tries to explain and you still don't get it, then nod your head ans smile, write it down,and we'll try to figure it out here, OK? Good luck!
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
It's important that you understand what the machinist is telling you. If he tells you something, and you have no idea what he is talking about, don't just nod your head and smile because you don't want to look stupid. Ask him, politely and respectfully, to explain what it means. If he tries to explain and you still don't get it, then nod your head ans smile, write it down,and we'll try to figure it out here, OK? Good luck!
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
I have already heard all about you forum guys! I guess I am one too though....
The good thing is the guy I am meeting with does all our work at the shop so he will straight up with us! OOOPS! Me