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The MOOG problem solver upper A ARM bushing and shaft replacement is off set and helps add offset. I just did the 72, I did the 71 last summer it really helped.
The MOOG problem solver upper A ARM bushing and shaft replacement is off set and helps add offset. I just did the 72, I did the 71 last summer it really helped.
I was looking at the moog web site at theses and it indicated they increase camber. Don't know if that increases caster too?
The offset replacement shaft compensates for the sag or bending of the frame. Putting them in brings you back to stock lets you use lots of shims for proper alignment. With lots of shims in place, it's easier to set the specs you want, including caster.
If you look at enough high mile Corvettes and other Chevrolet products, you'll notice most have very few shims in place, due to sagged frames.
Petr
So, taking this a step further, with frame sag, are we talking about the a-arm mounts pulled in (dimension less than optimal 26 3/8") or the reverse? Mounts moving away from each other.
The offset replacement shaft compensates for the sag or bending of the frame. Putting them in brings you back to stock lets you use lots of shims for proper alignment. With lots of shims in place, it's easier to set the specs you want, including caster.
If you look at enough high mile Corvettes and other Chevrolet products, you'll notice most have very few shims in place, due to sagged frames.
Petr
So, taking this a step further, with frame sag, are we talking about the a-arm mounts pulled in (dimension less than optimal 26 3/8") or the reverse? Mounts moving away from each other.
Sorry to OP for thread high Jack.
Frame sag brings the upper suspension mounts closer together. Too bad these cars weren't fitted at the factory with spreader bars. Might have prevented frame sag.
Pete
Frame sag brings the upper suspension mounts closer together. Too bad these cars weren't fitted at the factory with spreader bars. Might have prevented frame sag.
Pete
Are you saying that installing a spreader bar is all that would be needed to undo the sag?
The reason I ask is that I am about to tear down to the frame and will change all bushings on the rebuild.
I have a spreader arm already to include in that build.
I may change the a-arms and the shafts at the same time.
Wondering if stock replacement arms are all I need or even if I could just reuse the old ones with new bushings.
Txs for your input.
Txs to OP for thread as am gathering a lot of info before going ahead with the Borgeson install also.
Are you saying that installing a spreader bar is all that would be needed to undo the sag?
The reason I ask is that I am about to tear down to the frame and will change all bushings on the rebuild.
I have a spreader arm already to include in that build.
I may change the a-arms and the shafts at the same time.
Wondering if stock replacement arms are all I need or even if I could just reuse the old ones with new bushings.
Txs for your input.
Txs to OP for thread as am gathering a lot of info before going ahead with the Borgeson install also.
I don't think any currently available,spreader bar would be strong enough to "undo" age related sag.
If you have the bare frame, or the engine out you might be able to spread the frame with a large jack, or means. But I'd be concerned about cracking or distorting the frame. It's probably doable, but......
The offset replacement shafts and a speeder bar to keep sag from increasing is probably the best bet, considering cost, effort, etc.
I had trouble with the alignment on my 71, 70k miles. The off set bars allowed the shop to properly set all the specs.
I drove the car for 1/2 summer then did the rebuild, a huge difference. I replaced all the bushings, tie rods and ball joints with MOOG. I had the motor out so it was easy.
It allowed the shop to vary the number of shims to get the proper caster and camber. Previously the bar was up against the frame on the passenger side.
They make A arms that are adjustable - if needed. I have a mostly matching # car and wanted it to look somewhat stock. (I put the 4 speed in a box and put in a SST kit 5 speed - keeping the 4 speed plate.)
Last edited by BLUE1972; Mar 5, 2016 at 08:18 PM.
Reason: spell
I had trouble with the alignment on my 71, 70k miles. The off set bars allowed the shop to properly set all the specs.
I drove the car for 1/2 summer then did the rebuild, a huge difference. I replaced all the bushings, tie rods and ball joints with MOOG. I had the motor out so it was easy.
It allowed the shop to vary the number of shims to get the proper caster and camber. Previously the bar was up against the frame on the passenger side.
They make A arms that are adjustable - if needed. I have a mostly matching # car and wanted it to look somewhat stock. (I put the 4 speed in a box and put in a SST kit 5 speed - keeping the 4 speed plate.)
that's exactly what those offset shafts or bars are for.
Pete
I don't think any currently available,spreader bar would be strong enough to "undo" age related sag.
If you have the bare frame, or the engine out you might be able to spread the frame with a large jack, or means. But I'd be concerned about cracking or distorting the frame. It's probably doable, but......
The offset replacement shafts and a speeder bar to keep sag from increasing is probably the best bet, considering cost, effort, etc.
Pete
Ok
Good info.
How does one tell if the frame is sagging inwards?
Is there a measurement that can be made from the upper a-arms?
If so, what would the spec be for that?
Txs again
How does one tell if the frame is sagging inwards?
Is there a measurement that can be made from the upper a-arms?
If so, what would the spec be for that?
Txs again
Bman
I just checked the Chassis Service Manual for 1969. There are dimensions for the Corvette frame, but not for the dimension we're interested in. The easiest way to determine if there is significant sag is to have the car properly aligned by a competent technician. If there is typical sag, there will be very few shims in one or more of the four places they are used. Sometimes there will be no shims in one place, and few in the others.
A good front end tech. can tell you if the offset bars will help. That's what they (the offset bars) are for.
Pete
I read on a different Borgenson thread, that hammering the shaft causes an inner steering column bearing to collapse. Is this true?
After reading this entire thread, I didn't find any info on removing the column and cutting the shaft.
Can anyone comment how this is done (I have a '71 350, w/power steering, no tilt)?
Thanks
Removing the steering column to cut it to proper length is only required on certain C2 Corvettes. All C3s have the collapsible steering column that can be shortened enough with the column in place. You just have to be careful to go slowly and tap lightly until you get the feel for how it's moving. You don't want to bash it with a BFH and find you have to somehow pull the shaft back out.
Pete
Removing the steering column to cut it to proper length is only required on certain C2 Corvettes. All C3s have the collapsible steering column that can be shortened enough with the column in place. You just have to be careful to go slowly and tap lightly until you get the feel for how it's moving. You don't want to bash it with a BFH and find you have to somehow pull the shaft back out.
Pete
Speaking of which, if you collapse the shaft too far, can it easily be pulled back out/lengthened?
Speaking of which, if you collapse the shaft too far, can it easily be pulled back out/lengthened?
Thanks
I have never done that. I think the answer is "yes" you can pull it back out. BUT....the steering column is a controlled crush device. It resists collapse to protect YOU the driver. If you over collapse it and then pull it out you lose that protection, or at least some of it.
There was some discussion years back that even collapsing the column to accommodate the Borgeson resulted in a loss of protection to some degree. The consensus was that while that was true, the small amount of loss of protection was worth the advantage of the Borgeson.
Speaking of which, if you collapse the shaft too far, can it easily be pulled back out/lengthened?
Thanks
Yes... But don't do what I did. While trying to get the rag joint on, the shaft pushed back up inside the column, and I couldn't get it back out. Had to remove and dismantle the column to fix it! It happened fast. I'd recommend clamping the shaft (with vice grips or similar) while pushing the rag joint on.
Last edited by Metalhead140; Mar 7, 2016 at 06:49 PM.