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Done deal!! Leak free!! Still had 2 small leaks after the windshield was replaced and still had the leak in the trunk area. Used silicone like bill said. Put blue painters tape and applied the silicon. Removed the tape looks great and can't see it anyway once the interior is in. For the trunk I removed the trunk lid applied the tape applied silicone used a putty knife to shove it into the crack. Remove tape. Let it skim over reapplied tape put a second coat and smoothed it out remove the tape and done. Soaked it in the driveway for 10 min. Then passed it through the touch less car wash twice just to be sure. After a month I finally have interior again. The frost king insulation made a big difference.
OK, found some leaves in the cow utters on the driverside, but they weren't compacted and causing a blockage, is there any othe pathway that could divert water into the duct work leading to the blower motor?
Maybe I should start a new thread on this, but when I took out my dashboard to fix the HUD unit's secondary mirros pivot pin I noticed a large gap between the drivers door window and the weather stripping on the removable roof panel, the driverside door also creeks when closing it, I looked at the hinges but they don't seem to have hinge pin bushings like my blazer has, is there a way to align the door and or window to the roof panel seal?
If the HVAC Drain on the passengers side fire wall is CLOGGED, the water/condensate will back up in the air box and spill into the passengers foot well.
Get access to the little drain nipple on the firewall, pop it off and see if water pours out of the fitting. That rubber 90 deg fitting clogs up a LOT!
If you don't have condensation dripping out of the AC Condensation drain fitting when you are running the AC, its possibly clogged. That will surely cause wet BCMs, & wet carpets
Last but not least is the air box drain. When you use the AC or Defrost, condensation collects in the HVAC air box. If it cant drain out, it will leak in the pass foot well!!
Here is the drain tube. It lives on the passengers firewall just aft of the cylinder head: Flash light beam highlihts the area where the drain tube is:
The crimped end needs to be cut off.
Here is wher it lives!
Almost forgot about this. There are fender well access panels in both front fender wells. You can access the large and small drains in each access.
Dont forget to check and see if the side window seals and or top leaks!!
BC
So how do replace a broken one?
Is there a drainage diagram or a procedure to replace it?
Last but not least is the air box drain. When you use the AC or Defrost, condensation collects in the HVAC air box. If it cant drain out, it will leak in the pass foot well!!
Here is the drain tube. It lives on the passengers firewall just aft of the cylinder head: Flash light beam highlihts the area where the drain tube is:
The crimped end needs to be cut off.
Here is wher it lives!
Almost forgot about this. There are fender well access panels in both front fender wells. You can access the large and small drains in each access.
Dont forget to check and see if the side window seals and or top leaks!!
BC
Thanks Bill, I was able to remove and clean tbe utters and the little a/c drain, although I'm not quite sure how GM figures the water will climb uphill using gravity alone, the little a/c drain seems to be a good inch below where it goes thru the firewall.
Thanks Bill for the great info- now I know what a udder is when it is talked about.
on an A4 can be easily accessed and cleaned from the top. I have huge hands (small brain), but simply reached down next to the outside of the vacuum booster where I found all three udders and quickly removed a few pine needles and such by squeezing the udders open. 3 minutes tops! No need to remove access panel on ds
Will take the battery out one day and do the AC drain and udder pipe. Since I had very little trash in the ds, I suspect ps ok, but won't hurt to check. 1 oz. of prevention...........................:ro ck:
Dave
Last edited by David Shiel; Jun 5, 2016 at 01:47 PM.
The water/condensation drains out a small drain hole and thru that drain pipe. If it clogged,,,,,,,, its GOING to drain into the foot well .. No doubt about it.
Bill, I have question I hope you can answer. Having read many of your posts on the hvac drain issue I think I have narrowed my problem down to a blockage inside the box before the drain out thru the firewall. I have the blower motor and control module out and I thought I read in one of your posts that thru the hole left with the blower out that I could access the drain. It seems like that is covered from above and would only be accessible from the back side of the evaporator/heater core. Any advice on how I can get to that drain from the inside?
Thanks to Bill for the education, so my 2K FRC leak saga is this...
Pulled all interior excepting door panels and dash, found 5 leaks (two floods, one bad, two moderate). Any advice is welcome...
Completed:
a) The lower hinges had both had roughly 2.5" X 1/16" holes where the OEM caulking had dried and shrunk. This caused a flood behind the seats when parked nose up in my driveway.
Fix: Silicone’d the crap out of all four door hinges and the surrounding A-Piller. So far this one’s dry.
Next to Do:
b) Top of B-Piller, driver’s side. This causes a minor flood behind the passenger seat during high wind rain only.
Fix: Black Flex Shot Silicone from interior side. This had been repaired by GM once when the car was new(er).
c) Somewhere around the rear top seam, leaks into trunk’s driver’s side cubby-hole (not the trunk hinges or back window?). This is a moderate drip into the back cubby-hole.
Fix: Will Black Flex Shot the rear top seam? This is a moderate drip into the same back cubby-hole.
d) The weird one in that when the trunk is closed it distorts the trunk weatherstripping enough so that water can pass between it and the body to dump into the same driver’s side cyubby-hole.
Fix: Add Weatherstrip Sealant?
The good news so far is that the windshield and rear window are dry.
I too would be interested in some pics of the Curlee Dam!
I have a new headliner ready to go in, as well as some Artic Frost insulation, thanks all!
Last edited by doug_dayson; Aug 3, 2016 at 02:35 AM.
OK, finally got everything sealed up so the Arctic Frost and Reflectex can start going in.
So the A-Piller/Hinges are good, as is the FRC's Body/Top Seam in front of the trunk. My plan for this consisted of a lot of RTV into the Body/Top Seam in front of the trunk (leaving room for the Front Drains!), some Rod Backing between the Trunk Weatherstrip and the Body/Top Seam in front of the trunk, and some added aftermarket Weatherstripping around the edge of the Trunk Lid like Bill did with the C6 Hood Weatherstripping on his 02 Z06. Overkill maybe, but it works...!!!
Aside from that it was some additional Silicone in the B-Piller leak (inserted from the inside with the Headliner out), and that's about it as I was lucky in that all the big glass was sealed.
Wow, big/time consuming job, i.e. seal, let sealant cure, test, repeat etc...!!!
On to the fun stuff, putting it back together (and sealing those last two little drips LOL)!
Originally Posted by doug_dayson
Thanks to Bill for the education, so my 2K FRC leak saga is this...
Pulled all interior excepting door panels and dash, found 5 leaks (two floods, one bad, two moderate). Any advice is welcome...
Completed:
a) The lower hinges had both had roughly 2.5" X 1/16" holes where the OEM caulking had dried and shrunk. This caused a flood behind the seats when parked nose up in my driveway.
Fix: Silicone’d the crap out of all four door hinges and the surrounding A-Piller. So far this one’s dry.
Next to Do:
b) Top of B-Piller, driver’s side. This causes a minor flood behind the passenger seat during high wind rain only.
Fix: Black Flex Shot Silicone from interior side. This had been repaired by GM once when the car was new(er).
c) Somewhere around the rear top seam, leaks into trunk’s driver’s side cubby-hole (not the trunk hinges or back window?). This is a moderate drip into the back cubby-hole.
Fix: Will Black Flex Shot the rear top seam? This is a moderate drip into the same back cubby-hole.
d) The weird one in that when the trunk is closed it distorts the trunk weatherstripping enough so that water can pass between it and the body to dump into the same driver’s side cyubby-hole.
Fix: Add Weatherstrip Sealant?
The good news so far is that the windshield and rear window are dry.
I too would be interested in some pics of the Curlee Dam!
I have a new headliner ready to go in, as well as some Artic Frost insulation, thanks all!
Last edited by doug_dayson; Aug 7, 2016 at 07:51 PM.
Been repairing the leaks on my frc and found this tread to be very useful. However,, I have a water leak that I have not seen anyone else have or at post about it. Suggestion or repair would be appreciated.
I spray water between the ds roof and rear fender
Water come in through the area that looks like it's cracked or separated,collects in the square section under it until it overflows to the trunk carpet . though about drilling a hole in the square cup looking thing but unsure where it would drain to.
Could you post a interior pic from a little farther aback so I can get a better idea of where I'm looking at?
Mine's all back together so I can't use it as reference anymore.
Originally Posted by Dale002
Been repairing the leaks on my frc and found this tread to be very useful. However,, I have a water leak that I have not seen anyone else have or at post about it. Suggestion or repair would be appreciated.
I spray water between the ds roof and rear fender
Water come in through the area that looks like it's cracked or separated,collects in the square section under it until it overflows to the trunk carpet . though about drilling a hole in the square cup looking thing but unsure where it would drain to.
So it's at the bottom rear of your driver's B-Piller, right?
Have you tried sealer all around the area applied from the interior?
Is the car on level ground when you're testing?
Also, there's a drain on both sides in both top/body seams right behind the doors (the two front drains of the trunk trough routine), be sure they're clear (you can see them if you look closely into those seams from the outside).
Good luck, I feel your pain...
Last edited by doug_dayson; Sep 5, 2016 at 01:27 PM.
I'll try all those things. I think the seam has come separated between the tub and roof. The car is nose down, I'm having new tires and tpms installed, so tires are off. Also had leaks at both top B-pillars and at the truck. Used black silicone to seal those,I will leak check tomorrow.
My experience was that I was leaking over the left wheel well, but the actual leak was in the body/tub seam in front of the trunk lid and underneath the back window (someplace?).
I tried to seal from the inside and couldn't get it, so I sealed the area underneath the back window from the exterior (leaving room for the front drains etc), put some backing rod down between the body and weather stripping along the trunk weather-stipping's forward edge), then added weatherstripping to the upper trunk lid lips (thanks to Bill Curlee for the idea).
This cured it for me, good luck on yours!
Originally Posted by Dale002
I'll try all those things. I think the seam has come separated between the tub and roof. The car is nose down, I'm having new tires and tpms installed, so tires are off. Also had leaks at both top B-pillars and at the truck. Used black silicone to seal those,I will leak check tomorrow.
Leaked check it today and 50% of the leaks are gone. Still have leak down both left and right tub to top seam. Looking at it today I noticed I missed sealing about and inch on each side of the tub to body seam in front of the trunk area. Going to seal that and run a rod along the inside seam on both side and try again.
My experience was that I was leaking over the left wheel well, but the actual leak was in the body/tub seam in front of the trunk lid and underneath the back window (someplace?).
I tried to seal from the inside and couldn't get it, so I sealed the area underneath the back window from the exterior (leaving room for the front drains etc), put some backing rod down between the body and weather stripping along the trunk weather-stipping's forward edge), then added weatherstripping to the upper trunk lid lips (thanks to Bill Curlee for the idea).
This cured it for me, good luck on yours!
Doug, can you take a look at my thread titled "Oh No!! FRC Leaking!" and tell me if this was your leak as well?
Hi Bill, 03 Z, have an upper A piller leak running down to the hood release area and in to the foot well. Is it really ok to fill the rain gutter across the door, and in between the window molding running down the windshield with silicone, would that create a damming effect and push water flow to a place not wanted ?
Hi Bill, 03 Z, have an upper A piller leak running down to the hood release area and in to the foot well. Is it really ok to fill the rain gutter across the door, and in between the window molding running down the windshield with silicone, would that create a damming effect and push water flow to a place not wanted ?
The ONLY sure fire way to properly repair this issue is rain gutter/roof trim removal and perform a reseal job.
