** C7 Reported issues and resolutions thread **
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,195
Likes: 1,139
From: Santa Rosa Beach FL
PITA to have to take in MB C300 repeatedly -1. During scheduled maintenance visit (for brake system flush) a service campaign was performed...Invoice states Electrical wiring harness for CAM solenoid adjustment @ mileage 14,116. Advised DLR of #2 issue & part was ordered.
2. DLR replaced plastic pass side 3"x3" dash Vent cover due to slightly warped plastic lip on one of four sides @ mileage 14,231 > this repeat visit. Also mentioned at this visit...
3. one incident where wife reported car started but eng shut off after starting, waited a few minutes, then started and it stayed running: DLR conducted midtronic load test, performed extended DAS test, No codes in any system, current or stored alternator test as good, Max 14.0V, performed fuel pressure test, DAS check actual values of ME & running condition,inspect wiring, connectors as good, performed programming, & SCB coding to latest version. DLR could not replicate and no issue since. Began using Battery Tender when vehicle sits more than 2 or 3 days.
4. Right front door lock jumps up and down repeatedly instead of locking just once. Dlr says internal electrical fault and replaced inner door module on follow-up visit @ mileage 19,373 (ordered part > initial visit).
5. June 2014: Received an "interim" Recall Notice for possible tail lamp failure due to possible oxidation on the ground pin connector to some C-class vehicles. Oxidation can reduce illumination and be a risk for crash. MB is working to correct the condition as parts become available. Another letter will follow when parts become available. No follow-up letter rec'd to date. Rear lights function normal when i looked.
Del date 23 Feb 2011, Warr exp 23 Feb 2015. Current mileage 21+K.
Last edited by cor28vettes; Aug 2, 2014 at 01:09 AM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Navigation, Radio, Back up camera, bluetooth Quit on my C7
I remote started the vehicle & The Nav and backup camera is all that worked. The Stereo, Bluetooth, onstar, or any of the functions on the screen would not work. After shutting the car off, the 8" Screen would no longer display anything.
Im taking it back to the Dealership tomorrow to have it checked.
Anybody with Similar problems?
Im taking it back to the Dealership tomorrow to have it checked.
Anybody with Similar problems?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,045
Likes: 4
From: Yorktown VA
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Good luck. I don't want them to do that to my car, because I think someone from GM needs to fully understand the source of the misalignment before anyone starts playing with whatever suits their fancy. When these panels are misaligned it could be quite complicated to find the source of the problem. Band-aids won't work here, IMHO.
On my car, one panel leads to the next, and to the next, and pretty soon it's every panel on the car that is not properly aligned...
I can't imagine that replacing the rear fascia panel will solve your alignment problems. Chevrolet has already found out that the rear panel on your car won't align properly with the fenders.
All of these composite panels including the fascia panel are all coming off of a mold made from the same "plug" for each panel, and they should be very close to the exact shape and size. What could make them different is temperature differences of either the mold or the panel during manufacture, and probably, not much else. Surely the engineers have this all figured out. A plastic or composite panel (or mold) will generally expand or change or distort much more for a given change in temperature than a metal panel of the same size and shape.
When the rear fascia won't align chances are one or both of the rear fenders is misaligned. That's getting closer to the source of the problem (again, my humble opinion at work). According to my service manager, they have to cut the car apart from the inside to get at the adhesive holding the rear fenders in place. And that di=oes not leave me with the value of the new Stingray I bought.
Check the panel gaps on all four sides of the rear hatch. They should be parallel and equal and about 3mm or 1/8", according to Tadge Juechter, Chief Engineer. If they are not pretty doggone close to that, or they are tapered, chances one or more other body panels is also misaligned.
If that's the case, and the rear fender fits the rear of the rocker panel properly, chances are one or both rocker panels were misaligned when they were glued (my assumption) in place. My suggestion is to carefully check each rocker panel where it aligns with the front fenders and see of that alignment is the same on both sides of the vehicle, and that the body seams aren't "tapered". On mine, there is a noticeable difference here. You can see it - you don't have to measure anything.
On one of the Stingray videos they get into the care they have taken and the many years of experience Chevrolet has with Corvette panels and what lengths they went to, to get the Stingray body panels to fit almost perfectly. GM's claim is that the Stingray body panel fit is as good as any car in the world.
Keep in touch, Jim
On my car, one panel leads to the next, and to the next, and pretty soon it's every panel on the car that is not properly aligned...
I can't imagine that replacing the rear fascia panel will solve your alignment problems. Chevrolet has already found out that the rear panel on your car won't align properly with the fenders.
All of these composite panels including the fascia panel are all coming off of a mold made from the same "plug" for each panel, and they should be very close to the exact shape and size. What could make them different is temperature differences of either the mold or the panel during manufacture, and probably, not much else. Surely the engineers have this all figured out. A plastic or composite panel (or mold) will generally expand or change or distort much more for a given change in temperature than a metal panel of the same size and shape.
When the rear fascia won't align chances are one or both of the rear fenders is misaligned. That's getting closer to the source of the problem (again, my humble opinion at work). According to my service manager, they have to cut the car apart from the inside to get at the adhesive holding the rear fenders in place. And that di=oes not leave me with the value of the new Stingray I bought.
Check the panel gaps on all four sides of the rear hatch. They should be parallel and equal and about 3mm or 1/8", according to Tadge Juechter, Chief Engineer. If they are not pretty doggone close to that, or they are tapered, chances one or more other body panels is also misaligned.
If that's the case, and the rear fender fits the rear of the rocker panel properly, chances are one or both rocker panels were misaligned when they were glued (my assumption) in place. My suggestion is to carefully check each rocker panel where it aligns with the front fenders and see of that alignment is the same on both sides of the vehicle, and that the body seams aren't "tapered". On mine, there is a noticeable difference here. You can see it - you don't have to measure anything.
On one of the Stingray videos they get into the care they have taken and the many years of experience Chevrolet has with Corvette panels and what lengths they went to, to get the Stingray body panels to fit almost perfectly. GM's claim is that the Stingray body panel fit is as good as any car in the world.
Keep in touch, Jim
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2014 white corvette stingray
I purchased a new stingray in April for a graduation present for my daughter. It has 5300 miles on it and started having problems with it around 1800 miles. Its dropping from v8 to v4 on any incline while accelerating, I`ve put it in the shop twice and the second time in (after being repaired) is worse now than when I took it in. Now it will change from v8 to v4 on a 60% grade. Has anybody else had this problem?
Last edited by Plumb 53; Aug 4, 2014 at 10:01 PM. Reason: typo
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,764
Likes: 10
From: Cumming GA
On order: Torch Red Z51
If you're just maintaining your speed, that's what it's designed to do for fuel economy. However if you give it at least some moderate to heavy acceleration it should go to V8 very quickly. And it's slightly different between the M7 and A6. Mine's an A6.
I purchased a new stingray in April for a graduation present for my daughter. It has 5300 miles on it and started having problems with it around 1800 miles. Its dropping from v8 to v4 on any incline while accelerating, I`ve put it in the shop twice and the second time in (after being repaired) is worse now than when I took it in. Now it will change from v8 to v4 on a 60% grade. Has anybody else had this problem?
Pro
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 520
Likes: 14
I think you are wrong. From V8 to V4 on a incline (going up hill) is wrong. Something is wrong for sure.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 629
Likes: 65
From: Freedom PA
60% grade???
What the hell are you climbing; Mt. Everest. That's a 31 degree angle hill. At that steep of a hill you should be in 1st. gear, and there shouldn't be any AFM possible.
Yes your car has an obvious problem. It shouldn't even be able to pull the car up that steep of a hill in V4 mode.
Ed
What the hell are you climbing; Mt. Everest. That's a 31 degree angle hill. At that steep of a hill you should be in 1st. gear, and there shouldn't be any AFM possible.
Yes your car has an obvious problem. It shouldn't even be able to pull the car up that steep of a hill in V4 mode.
Ed
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
C7 Trunk Latch Non Issue
We just crack the window or door and it closes perfectly.yes if car is locked and we are done driving her for the day, we use method mention above, works great. Either way
Last edited by FloridaobGM; Aug 5, 2014 at 06:00 PM.
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Vin# 5834
Airbag Warning is Flashing on instrument panel.
Dealer troubleshot and it was an indication that the passenger's Belt Tensioner was the problem, part came in it didnt fix the problem.
The Fix was a 90 degree connector located behind the passenger's seat control panel. It needs to be reworked with a 0 degree connection.
Airbag Warning is Flashing on instrument panel.
Dealer troubleshot and it was an indication that the passenger's Belt Tensioner was the problem, part came in it didnt fix the problem.
The Fix was a 90 degree connector located behind the passenger's seat control panel. It needs to be reworked with a 0 degree connection.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Vin# 5834
3LT,Z51,7SPD manual dual mode exhaust
Car would stall out and starter would just sit there cranking and cranking, I was driving along and my grandson was switching mode selector and a few miles later this happened, has not happened again.
3LT,Z51,7SPD manual dual mode exhaust
Car would stall out and starter would just sit there cranking and cranking, I was driving along and my grandson was switching mode selector and a few miles later this happened, has not happened again.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Vin# 5834
3LT,Z51,7spd
Rear hatch inside flat black paint has 4 brush mark spots where someone touch it up. The edges of panels have what looks like trash in the paint or small bubbles the rear hatch, rear quarters, doors have severe orange peel and the edges where front fenders meet the hood both sides. Front facia doesn't align with drivers front fender, both rear fenders gaps @ rear facia joint don't have an even gap from top to bottom.
3LT,Z51,7spd
Rear hatch inside flat black paint has 4 brush mark spots where someone touch it up. The edges of panels have what looks like trash in the paint or small bubbles the rear hatch, rear quarters, doors have severe orange peel and the edges where front fenders meet the hood both sides. Front facia doesn't align with drivers front fender, both rear fenders gaps @ rear facia joint don't have an even gap from top to bottom.
Last edited by FloridaobGM; Aug 5, 2014 at 05:58 PM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Vin#5834
3LT, Z51,7spd coupe
Plastic trim from dash down to door sill and up the backside of door opening, scratches look like from people getting in and out. Dealer replaced everything that was damaged. The Car is awesome driver! Its so quiet while jamming down the highway!
3LT, Z51,7spd coupe
Plastic trim from dash down to door sill and up the backside of door opening, scratches look like from people getting in and out. Dealer replaced everything that was damaged. The Car is awesome driver! Its so quiet while jamming down the highway!
Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 717
Likes: 44
You asked, "What other body parts"? Answer - all of them. This car never should have passed a quality control inspection before it left the factory.
The gap between the hatch and the rear deck averages 5/16", and it's tapered a bit. The gap at the front of the hatch is correct - 1/8", and it just about perfect. The gaps on each side of the hatch are not equidistant along their length - they're tapered, too. There is a larger gap forward of where the midsection of the hatch narrows and progresses forward.
The roof panel adjacent to the hatch is not aligned side to side so it is equidistant from each rear window - it is displaced to the left about 1/8". The rear hatch must also be displaced a little to the left.
The gap between the rear bumper shell is not even where it meets the rear fenders. It's tight at the bottom, loose at the top, and the bumper shell is not flush with either fender.
The rear fenders fit very well with the rocker panel rear edges where they are screwed to it. They are flush and the gaps are tight and uniform.
The roof panel gaps are large, like the rear of the hatch. The rubber seals are not even with the edges of the roof panel. I have never removed the hatch - this is the way it came. Maybe that's the way the roof panel is supposed fit.
The door gaps are not even and parallel from top to bottom, front or rear - they also taper some. The doors are not flush with their mating panels, either. The right front fender projects outward from the rocker panel about 1/8" at the bottom of the door. The left front fender is flush with the rocker panel.
Now we come to the fit of the hood, which is not up to the standard below, but it's a lot better than the fit of the hatch. Each gap is tapered and varies along its length. The hood projects above the front bumper along its whole length by about 1/8" on average - it's not flush with the bumper, but that should be fairly easy to fix - maybe.
>> Here's an excerpt from the brochure I got from GM as a new Stingray owner. It came under a cover letter from Tadge Juechter and two other top GM Exec's. This is what it says about body panel fit - 3mm gaps are the standard (3mm is about 1/8"):
"Our goal with engineering this car comes down to one word. Precision. For example we got the gaps between moving body panels down to three millimeters - as good as you'll see on any car in the world".
The gap between the hatch and the rear deck averages 5/16", and it's tapered a bit. The gap at the front of the hatch is correct - 1/8", and it just about perfect. The gaps on each side of the hatch are not equidistant along their length - they're tapered, too. There is a larger gap forward of where the midsection of the hatch narrows and progresses forward.
The roof panel adjacent to the hatch is not aligned side to side so it is equidistant from each rear window - it is displaced to the left about 1/8". The rear hatch must also be displaced a little to the left.
The gap between the rear bumper shell is not even where it meets the rear fenders. It's tight at the bottom, loose at the top, and the bumper shell is not flush with either fender.
The rear fenders fit very well with the rocker panel rear edges where they are screwed to it. They are flush and the gaps are tight and uniform.
The roof panel gaps are large, like the rear of the hatch. The rubber seals are not even with the edges of the roof panel. I have never removed the hatch - this is the way it came. Maybe that's the way the roof panel is supposed fit.
The door gaps are not even and parallel from top to bottom, front or rear - they also taper some. The doors are not flush with their mating panels, either. The right front fender projects outward from the rocker panel about 1/8" at the bottom of the door. The left front fender is flush with the rocker panel.
Now we come to the fit of the hood, which is not up to the standard below, but it's a lot better than the fit of the hatch. Each gap is tapered and varies along its length. The hood projects above the front bumper along its whole length by about 1/8" on average - it's not flush with the bumper, but that should be fairly easy to fix - maybe.
>> Here's an excerpt from the brochure I got from GM as a new Stingray owner. It came under a cover letter from Tadge Juechter and two other top GM Exec's. This is what it says about body panel fit - 3mm gaps are the standard (3mm is about 1/8"):
"Our goal with engineering this car comes down to one word. Precision. For example we got the gaps between moving body panels down to three millimeters - as good as you'll see on any car in the world".
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Chesterfield Missouri
vin 10731, 2600 miles, non Z51 stick: Problem that just cropped up the last week or so. Startup in morning and can feel a slight vibration in pedal when engaging clutch, and also a clicking noise - clutch pedal released and clicking noise disappears. When clutch released the clutch grabs (or chatters) and car jerks as clutch released. However after only a 3-4 mile drive warmup all this disappears and all operates as it should - no clicking or chatter or car jerking as you pull away from a dead stop. From my experience in the "old days" i'd guess clutch or flywheel and certainly a throwout bearing but the gearhead days are over. I am unfamilair as to whether the torque tube might be involved plus why does it clear up when warm? any Help appreciated. Thanks - ron
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
60% grade???
What the hell are you climbing; Mt. Everest. That's a 31 degree angle hill. At that steep of a hill you should be in 1st. gear, and there shouldn't be any AFM possible.
Yes your car has an obvious problem. It shouldn't even be able to pull the car up that steep of a hill in V4 mode.
Ed
What the hell are you climbing; Mt. Everest. That's a 31 degree angle hill. At that steep of a hill you should be in 1st. gear, and there shouldn't be any AFM possible.
Yes your car has an obvious problem. It shouldn't even be able to pull the car up that steep of a hill in V4 mode.
Ed
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 302
Took mine to Costco to buy some supplies. As I backed out of my parking spot, rear view camera came on as usual, but did not tun off when I put it into drive. Message came up on centre display that said "Service rear view camera" and screen was stuck with no camera image but just a fixed curved rear drive path image that you see when backing up with steering wheel turned. No response from any button below screen to get it back to normal. At the next light I cycled it back to normal by putting it in and out of reverse a couple of times. Anyone else have this issue, and what was the fix?
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 90
Likes: 60
Isn't a Clutch Problem - Crank End Play
vin 10731, 2600 miles, non Z51 stick: Problem that just cropped up the last week or so. Startup in morning and can feel a slight vibration in pedal when engaging clutch, and also a clicking noise - clutch pedal released and clicking noise disappears. When clutch released the clutch grabs (or chatters) and car jerks as clutch released. However after only a 3-4 mile drive warmup all this disappears and all operates as it should - no clicking or chatter or car jerking as you pull away from a dead stop. From my experience in the "old days" i'd guess clutch or flywheel and certainly a throwout bearing but the gearhead days are over. I am unfamilair as to whether the torque tube might be involved plus why does it clear up when warm? any Help appreciated. Thanks - ron
Racer
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 355
Likes: 14
Econ mode on 7sp Manual
We did museum delivery then drove across to N. Carolina including "the tail of the dragon" on the way home to Tampa. I tried econ mode on the Interstate a few times and when it went from V4 mode to V8 mode, it kind of had a lurch. I don't think anything is wrong, it's just hard to switch between without that on a manual trans. With an automatic, they can just alter the slush shift so you don't feel it. Works great on my 08 Avalanche and you never feel it.
Henceforth and ever more, no econ mode for me!!!
Henceforth and ever more, no econ mode for me!!!
Build data 5/1/2014 Vin # 24161. Mileage 2936 Z51, manual
I just did a 2000 round trip drive to Canada. Overall the car worked well, but I did notice some things that bothered me. In 7th gear (touring mode) doing above 65 when I putting it under additional load, I got this feeling that the car was missing, no codes, pulled away fine, just did not seem to feel right. I did have a run for about 60 miles at between 95 MPH and 105 and except for this miss/lugging feel issue everything was great. Also I noticed that the console door is not really that counter balanced and once it gets past the opened locked position, it just slams shut. I don’t recall this happening in my C6.
Also I’m not a big fan of the econ mode, not sure it really buys much unless you are driving on the salt flats. It’s kind of annoying when it kicks in and out and I can feel and hear the difference.
Anyone else noticing these things?
Jim
I just did a 2000 round trip drive to Canada. Overall the car worked well, but I did notice some things that bothered me. In 7th gear (touring mode) doing above 65 when I putting it under additional load, I got this feeling that the car was missing, no codes, pulled away fine, just did not seem to feel right. I did have a run for about 60 miles at between 95 MPH and 105 and except for this miss/lugging feel issue everything was great. Also I noticed that the console door is not really that counter balanced and once it gets past the opened locked position, it just slams shut. I don’t recall this happening in my C6.
Also I’m not a big fan of the econ mode, not sure it really buys much unless you are driving on the salt flats. It’s kind of annoying when it kicks in and out and I can feel and hear the difference.
Anyone else noticing these things?
Jim
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 629
Likes: 65
From: Freedom PA
Engine main thrust bearing failures are very uncommon. I have only repaired one personally, and that was back in the 50's on a flathead V8 Ford. I can't recall of hearing of any other failures on a stock/non race engine.
Normal end play should be in the order of .0015 to .007; you are nearly 20 times over the higher limit.
I hope they know the cause of these failures.
Ed
Last edited by Old Yellow; Aug 10, 2014 at 10:40 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,009
Likes: 54
From: slower lower DE
LOSS OF POWER STEERING
See my earlier post #1836 for discussion of problem.
Steering rack replaced on 8/4/14, along with a wheel alignment. BTW-threw the code about 1 mile from the dealership. I actually thought that was helpful to again confirm the intermittent problem.
Drove a number of short trips around the local area. Longest one was about 25 miles. No codes were thrown. (the "25 mile" mark seemed important because the code was coming up usually between 5 and 25 miles). As I noted in my original post, the condition and code would clear upon an engine shut down/restart.
Took a several hundred mile trip this weekend. No codes thrown. Have another 200 mile trip this week. If all goes well I will regain some confidence that the problem was corrected with the rack install.
I never really got a good explanation as to how it was determined that the rack was actually the culprit. And I haven't seen anyone else post the same problem/solution yet.
Ed
See my earlier post #1836 for discussion of problem.
Steering rack replaced on 8/4/14, along with a wheel alignment. BTW-threw the code about 1 mile from the dealership. I actually thought that was helpful to again confirm the intermittent problem.
Drove a number of short trips around the local area. Longest one was about 25 miles. No codes were thrown. (the "25 mile" mark seemed important because the code was coming up usually between 5 and 25 miles). As I noted in my original post, the condition and code would clear upon an engine shut down/restart.
Took a several hundred mile trip this weekend. No codes thrown. Have another 200 mile trip this week. If all goes well I will regain some confidence that the problem was corrected with the rack install.
I never really got a good explanation as to how it was determined that the rack was actually the culprit. And I haven't seen anyone else post the same problem/solution yet.
Ed