** C7 Reported issues and resolutions thread **
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 90
Likes: 60
Clutch Problems?
vin 10731, 2600 miles, non Z51 stick: Problem that just cropped up the last week or so. Startup in morning and can feel a slight vibration in pedal when engaging clutch, and also a clicking noise - clutch pedal released and clicking noise disappears. When clutch released the clutch grabs (or chatters) and car jerks as clutch released. However after only a 3-4 mile drive warmup all this disappears and all operates as it should - no clicking or chatter or car jerking as you pull away from a dead stop. From my experience in the "old days" i'd guess clutch or flywheel and certainly a throwout bearing but the gearhead days are over. I am unfamilair as to whether the torque tube might be involved plus why does it clear up when warm? any Help appreciated. Thanks - ron
Intermediate
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
What I'm wondering about is if all of the initial 2915 production will be Z06's or will they produce the 2015 coupes and convertibles right along with the Z06?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,016
Likes: 73
From: Texas
Just picked up my new C7 and the first hot day with the windows closed I was Greeted with the wonderful smell of GLUE and adhesives. I have been leaving the windows open in the garage - this helped a bit but still not that wonderful "new car smell" I was hoping for.
Looks like this is a common issue on Corvettes..
Looks like this is a common issue on Corvettes..
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,016
Likes: 73
From: Texas
It's so sad that this is what people expect and is just normal for people who buy American made cars.
Most American car buyers: "Oh yea, it's the first year of this production model, of course there are going to be problems"
American car buyers should start demanding better quality from automakers. It is just pathetic to expect and to accept so many problems as "the norm"
Most American car buyers: "Oh yea, it's the first year of this production model, of course there are going to be problems"
American car buyers should start demanding better quality from automakers. It is just pathetic to expect and to accept so many problems as "the norm"
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 15,996
Likes: 824
I am having the same problem. I thought that I read a post that said something about the screen hitting the bezel? Don't know what that is.
Also, my seat/steering wheel is not always returning to the memory setting when it should. I keep pressing the "1" button and little by little they will move.
Also, my seat/steering wheel is not always returning to the memory setting when it should. I keep pressing the "1" button and little by little they will move.
Thanks for your post. I understand how concerning the steering wheel function is in your situation and would like to know if you've considered an official GM diagnosis? If so, I'd be happy to play a role in that process! Feel free to send me a private message if you'd like to discuss this further.
William R.
Chevrolet Customer Care
Intermediate
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
The gap between the hatch and the rear deck averages 5/16", and it's tapered a bit. The gap at the front of the hatch is correct - 1/8", and it just about perfect. The gaps on each side of the hatch are not equidistant along their length - they're tapered, too. There is a larger gap forward of where the midsection of the hatch narrows and progresses forward.
The roof panel adjacent to the hatch is not aligned side to side so it is equidistant from each rear window - it is displaced to the left about 1/8". The rear hatch must also be displaced a little to the left.
The gap between the rear bumper shell is not even where it meets the rear fenders. It's tight at the bottom, loose at the top, and the bumper shell is not flush with either fender.
The rear fenders fit very well with the rocker panel rear edges where they are screwed to it. They are flush and the gaps are tight and uniform.
The roof panel gaps are large, like the rear of the hatch. The rubber seals are not even with the edges of the roof panel. I have never removed the hatch - this is the way it came. Maybe that's the way the roof panel is supposed fit.
The door gaps are not even and parallel from top to bottom, front or rear - they also taper some. The doors are not flush with their mating panels, either. The right front fender projects outward from the rocker panel about 1/8" at the bottom of the door. The left front fender is flush with the rocker panel.
Now we come to the fit of the hood, which is not up to the standard below, but it's a lot better than the fit of the hatch. Each gap is tapered and varies along its length. The hood projects above the front bumper along its whole length by about 1/8" on average - it's not flush with the bumper, but that should be fairly easy to fix - maybe.
>> Here's an excerpt from the brochure I got from GM as a new Stingray owner. It came under a cover letter from Tadge Juechter and two other top GM Exec's. This is what it says about body panel fit - 3mm gaps are the standard (3mm is about 1/8"):
"Our goal with engineering this car comes down to one word. Precision. For example we got the gaps between moving body panels down to three millimeters - as good as you'll see on any car in the world".
Last edited by j14152; Jul 30, 2014 at 09:37 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 157
Likes: 1
From: Sebring florida
You asked, "What other body parts"? Answer - all of them. This car never should have passed a quality control inspection before it left the factory.
The gap between the hatch and the rear deck averages 5/16", and it's tapered a bit. The gap at the front of the hatch is correct - 1/8", and it just about perfect. The gaps on each side of the hatch are not equidistant along their length - they're tapered, too. There is a larger gap forward of where the midsection of the hatch narrows and progresses forward.
The roof panel adjacent to the hatch is not aligned side to side so it is equidistant from each rear window - it is displaced to the left about 1/8". The rear hatch must also be displaced a little to the left.
The gap between the rear bumper shell is not even where it meets the rear fenders. It's tight at the bottom, loose at the top, and the bumper shell is not flush with either fender.
The rear fenders fit very well with the rocker panel rear edges where they are screwed to it. They are flush and the gaps are tight and uniform.
The roof panel gaps are large, like the rear of the hatch. The rubber seals are not even with the edges of the roof panel. I have never removed the hatch - this is the way it came. Maybe that's the way the roof panel is supposed fit.
The door gaps are not even and parallel from top to bottom, front or rear - they also taper some. The doors are not flush with their mating panels, either. The right front fender projects outward from the rocker panel about 1/8" at the bottom of the door. The left front fender is flush with the rocker panel.
Now we come to the fit of the hood, which is not up to the standard below, but it's a lot better than the fit of the hatch. Each gap is tapered and varies along its length. The hood projects above the front bumper along its whole length by about 1/8" on average - it's not flush with the bumper, but that should be fairly easy to fix - maybe.
>> Here's an excerpt from the brochure I got from GM as a new Stingray owner. It came under a cover letter from Tadge Juechter and two other top GM Exec's. This is what it says about body panel fit - 3mm gaps are the standard (3mm is about 1/8"):
"Our goal with engineering this car comes down to one word. Precision. For example we got the gaps between moving body panels down to three millimeters - as good as you'll see on any car in the world".
The gap between the hatch and the rear deck averages 5/16", and it's tapered a bit. The gap at the front of the hatch is correct - 1/8", and it just about perfect. The gaps on each side of the hatch are not equidistant along their length - they're tapered, too. There is a larger gap forward of where the midsection of the hatch narrows and progresses forward.
The roof panel adjacent to the hatch is not aligned side to side so it is equidistant from each rear window - it is displaced to the left about 1/8". The rear hatch must also be displaced a little to the left.
The gap between the rear bumper shell is not even where it meets the rear fenders. It's tight at the bottom, loose at the top, and the bumper shell is not flush with either fender.
The rear fenders fit very well with the rocker panel rear edges where they are screwed to it. They are flush and the gaps are tight and uniform.
The roof panel gaps are large, like the rear of the hatch. The rubber seals are not even with the edges of the roof panel. I have never removed the hatch - this is the way it came. Maybe that's the way the roof panel is supposed fit.
The door gaps are not even and parallel from top to bottom, front or rear - they also taper some. The doors are not flush with their mating panels, either. The right front fender projects outward from the rocker panel about 1/8" at the bottom of the door. The left front fender is flush with the rocker panel.
Now we come to the fit of the hood, which is not up to the standard below, but it's a lot better than the fit of the hatch. Each gap is tapered and varies along its length. The hood projects above the front bumper along its whole length by about 1/8" on average - it's not flush with the bumper, but that should be fairly easy to fix - maybe.
>> Here's an excerpt from the brochure I got from GM as a new Stingray owner. It came under a cover letter from Tadge Juechter and two other top GM Exec's. This is what it says about body panel fit - 3mm gaps are the standard (3mm is about 1/8"):
"Our goal with engineering this car comes down to one word. Precision. For example we got the gaps between moving body panels down to three millimeters - as good as you'll see on any car in the world".
Maybe it should have been refused.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
I bought it almost 1000 miles from home, so had to travel to pick it up. I planned to meet friends 500 miles away from the dealership the day after I picked it up.
I had ordered this car in October 2013, and I got it in May 2014. There was a major screw-up with the order for this car, is why. It had to be re-ordered after the first one arrived at the dealership. That doesn't help one reject a car like this, either.
What I saw at the dealer, was the large gap at the hatch and the rear deck, and that the hatch looked misaligned. I also commented about the hood alignment. The sales person said it should be easy to fix. I also thought so at the time.
It was not until I got to drive it the rest of the way home, two weeks later, that I took a closer look, and began to think about what caused the misalignment. It probably goes back to the first panels that were fastened to the chassis with adhesive, and it is one or more of those that misaligned the rest of the body.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Intermediate
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
I bought it almost 1000 miles from home, so had to travel to pick it up. I planned to meet friends 500 miles away from the dealership the day after I picked it up.
I had ordered this car in October 2013, and I got it in May 2014. There was a major screw-up with the order for this car, is why. It had to be re-ordered after the first one arrived at the dealership.
What I saw at the dealer, was the large gap at the hatch and the rear deck, and that the hatch looked misaligned. I also commented about the hood alignment. The sales person said it should be easy to fix. I also thought so at the time.
These things didn't help me reject the car. At the time I didn't think of rejecting it.
It was not until I got to drive it the rest of the way home, two weeks later, that I took some closer looks, and began to think about what caused the misalignment. It probably goes back to misalignment of the first panels that were fastened to the chassis with adhesive. It may be that one or more of these panels caused the misaligned of the rest of the body.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 184
Likes: 17
From: Springfield Mo
Clutch
vin 10731, 2600 miles, non Z51 stick: Problem that just cropped up the last week or so. Startup in morning and can feel a slight vibration in pedal when engaging clutch, and also a clicking noise - clutch pedal released and clicking noise disappears. When clutch released the clutch grabs (or chatters) and car jerks as clutch released. However after only a 3-4 mile drive warmup all this disappears and all operates as it should - no clicking or chatter or car jerking as you pull away from a dead stop. From my experience in the "old days" i'd guess clutch or flywheel and certainly a throwout bearing but the gearhead days are over. I am unfamilair as to whether the torque tube might be involved plus why does it clear up when warm? any Help appreciated. Thanks - ron
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 90
Likes: 60
Talked to Service dept yesterday and he said there was a service bulletin regarding chatter. it was in rear end clutches and replacing rear end lube usually solved it. However I will show him a copy of this post regarding Crankshaft end play - I hope it isn't that!
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,767
Likes: 338
From: San Diego CA
You asked, "What other body parts"? Answer - all of them. This car never should have passed a quality control inspection before it left the factory.
The gap between the hatch and the rear deck averages 5/16", and it's tapered a bit. The gap at the front of the hatch is correct - 1/8", and it just about perfect. The gaps on each side of the hatch are not equidistant along their length - they're tapered, too. There is a larger gap forward of where the midsection of the hatch narrows and progresses forward.
The roof panel adjacent to the hatch is not aligned side to side so it is equidistant from each rear window - it is displaced to the left about 1/8". The rear hatch must also be displaced a little to the left.
The gap between the rear bumper shell is not even where it meets the rear fenders. It's tight at the bottom, loose at the top, and the bumper shell is not flush with either fender.
The rear fenders fit very well with the rocker panel rear edges where they are screwed to it. They are flush and the gaps are tight and uniform.
The roof panel gaps are large, like the rear of the hatch. The rubber seals are not even with the edges of the roof panel. I have never removed the hatch - this is the way it came. Maybe that's the way the roof panel is supposed fit.
The door gaps are not even and parallel from top to bottom, front or rear - they also taper some. The doors are not flush with their mating panels, either. The right front fender projects outward from the rocker panel about 1/8" at the bottom of the door. The left front fender is flush with the rocker panel.
Now we come to the fit of the hood, which is not up to the standard below, but it's a lot better than the fit of the hatch. Each gap is tapered and varies along its length. The hood projects above the front bumper along its whole length by about 1/8" on average - it's not flush with the bumper, but that should be fairly easy to fix - maybe.
>> Here's an excerpt from the brochure I got from GM as a new Stingray owner. It came under a cover letter from Tadge Juechter and two other top GM Exec's. This is what it says about body panel fit - 3mm gaps are the standard (3mm is about 1/8"):
"Our goal with engineering this car comes down to one word. Precision. For example we got the gaps between moving body panels down to three millimeters - as good as you'll see on any car in the world".
The gap between the hatch and the rear deck averages 5/16", and it's tapered a bit. The gap at the front of the hatch is correct - 1/8", and it just about perfect. The gaps on each side of the hatch are not equidistant along their length - they're tapered, too. There is a larger gap forward of where the midsection of the hatch narrows and progresses forward.
The roof panel adjacent to the hatch is not aligned side to side so it is equidistant from each rear window - it is displaced to the left about 1/8". The rear hatch must also be displaced a little to the left.
The gap between the rear bumper shell is not even where it meets the rear fenders. It's tight at the bottom, loose at the top, and the bumper shell is not flush with either fender.
The rear fenders fit very well with the rocker panel rear edges where they are screwed to it. They are flush and the gaps are tight and uniform.
The roof panel gaps are large, like the rear of the hatch. The rubber seals are not even with the edges of the roof panel. I have never removed the hatch - this is the way it came. Maybe that's the way the roof panel is supposed fit.
The door gaps are not even and parallel from top to bottom, front or rear - they also taper some. The doors are not flush with their mating panels, either. The right front fender projects outward from the rocker panel about 1/8" at the bottom of the door. The left front fender is flush with the rocker panel.
Now we come to the fit of the hood, which is not up to the standard below, but it's a lot better than the fit of the hatch. Each gap is tapered and varies along its length. The hood projects above the front bumper along its whole length by about 1/8" on average - it's not flush with the bumper, but that should be fairly easy to fix - maybe.
>> Here's an excerpt from the brochure I got from GM as a new Stingray owner. It came under a cover letter from Tadge Juechter and two other top GM Exec's. This is what it says about body panel fit - 3mm gaps are the standard (3mm is about 1/8"):
"Our goal with engineering this car comes down to one word. Precision. For example we got the gaps between moving body panels down to three millimeters - as good as you'll see on any car in the world".
Intermediate
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
I am also dealing with poor panel alignment issues on the rear quarter panels where they meet the rear fascia. The dealer had the car all day and tried using shims but still could not get them to align. They have ordered a new rear fascia which will then have to be painted. Initially said about two weeks but now telling me 8-10 weeks due to factory back order. At least vehicle is driveable but not great to look at. Very poor quality control in my opinion.
On my car, one panel leads to the next, and to the next, and pretty soon it's every panel on the car that is not properly aligned...
I can't imagine that replacing the rear fascia panel will solve your alignment problems. Chevrolet has already found out that the rear panel on your car won't align properly with the fenders.
All of these composite panels including the fascia panel are all coming off of a mold made from the same "plug" for each panel, and they should be very close to the exact shape and size. What could make them different is temperature differences of either the mold or the panel during manufacture, and probably, not much else. Surely the engineers have this all figured out. A plastic or composite panel (or mold) will generally expand or change or distort much more for a given change in temperature than a metal panel of the same size and shape.
When the rear fascia won't align chances are one or both of the rear fenders is misaligned. That's getting closer to the source of the problem (again, my humble opinion at work). According to my service manager, they have to cut the car apart from the inside to get at the adhesive holding the rear fenders in place. And that di=oes not leave me with the value of the new Stingray I bought.
Check the panel gaps on all four sides of the rear hatch. They should be parallel and equal and about 3mm or 1/8", according to Tadge Juechter, Chief Engineer. If they are not pretty doggone close to that, or they are tapered, chances one or more other body panels is also misaligned.
If that's the case, and the rear fender fits the rear of the rocker panel properly, chances are one or both rocker panels were misaligned when they were glued (my assumption) in place. My suggestion is to carefully check each rocker panel where it aligns with the front fenders and see of that alignment is the same on both sides of the vehicle, and that the body seams aren't "tapered". On mine, there is a noticeable difference here. You can see it - you don't have to measure anything.
On one of the Stingray videos they get into the care they have taken and the many years of experience Chevrolet has with Corvette panels and what lengths they went to, to get the Stingray body panels to fit almost perfectly. GM's claim is that the Stingray body panel fit is as good as any car in the world.
Keep in touch, Jim
Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 717
Likes: 44
Good luck. I don't want them to do that to my car, because I think someone from GM needs to fully understand the source of the misalignment before anyone starts playing with whatever suits their fancy. When these panels are misaligned it could be quite complicated to find the source of the problem. Band-aids won't work here, IMHO.
On my car, one panel leads to the next, and to the next, and pretty soon it's every panel on the car that is not properly aligned...
I can't imagine that replacing the rear fascia panel will solve your alignment problems. Chevrolet has already found out that the rear panel on your car won't align properly with the fenders.
All of these composite panels including the fascia panel are all coming off of a mold made from the same "plug" for each panel, and they should be very close to the exact shape and size. What could make them different is temperature differences of either the mold or the panel during manufacture, and probably, not much else. Surely the engineers have this all figured out. A plastic or composite panel (or mold) will generally expand or change or distort much more for a given change in temperature than a metal panel of the same size and shape.
When the rear fascia won't align chances are one or both of the rear fenders is misaligned. That's getting closer to the source of the problem (again, my humble opinion at work). According to my service manager, they have to cut the car apart from the inside to get at the adhesive holding the rear fenders in place. And that di=oes not leave me with the value of the new Stingray I bought.
Check the panel gaps on all four sides of the rear hatch. They should be parallel and equal and about 3mm or 1/8", according to Tadge Juechter, Chief Engineer. If they are not pretty doggone close to that, or they are tapered, chances one or more other body panels is also misaligned.
If that's the case, and the rear fender fits the rear of the rocker panel properly, chances are one or both rocker panels were misaligned when they were glued (my assumption) in place. My suggestion is to carefully check each rocker panel where it aligns with the front fenders and see of that alignment is the same on both sides of the vehicle, and that the body seams aren't "tapered". On mine, there is a noticeable difference here. You can see it - you don't have to measure anything.
On one of the Stingray videos they get into the care they have taken and the many years of experience Chevrolet has with Corvette panels and what lengths they went to, to get the Stingray body panels to fit almost perfectly. GM's claim is that the Stingray body panel fit is as good as any car in the world.
Keep in touch, Jim
On my car, one panel leads to the next, and to the next, and pretty soon it's every panel on the car that is not properly aligned...
I can't imagine that replacing the rear fascia panel will solve your alignment problems. Chevrolet has already found out that the rear panel on your car won't align properly with the fenders.
All of these composite panels including the fascia panel are all coming off of a mold made from the same "plug" for each panel, and they should be very close to the exact shape and size. What could make them different is temperature differences of either the mold or the panel during manufacture, and probably, not much else. Surely the engineers have this all figured out. A plastic or composite panel (or mold) will generally expand or change or distort much more for a given change in temperature than a metal panel of the same size and shape.
When the rear fascia won't align chances are one or both of the rear fenders is misaligned. That's getting closer to the source of the problem (again, my humble opinion at work). According to my service manager, they have to cut the car apart from the inside to get at the adhesive holding the rear fenders in place. And that di=oes not leave me with the value of the new Stingray I bought.
Check the panel gaps on all four sides of the rear hatch. They should be parallel and equal and about 3mm or 1/8", according to Tadge Juechter, Chief Engineer. If they are not pretty doggone close to that, or they are tapered, chances one or more other body panels is also misaligned.
If that's the case, and the rear fender fits the rear of the rocker panel properly, chances are one or both rocker panels were misaligned when they were glued (my assumption) in place. My suggestion is to carefully check each rocker panel where it aligns with the front fenders and see of that alignment is the same on both sides of the vehicle, and that the body seams aren't "tapered". On mine, there is a noticeable difference here. You can see it - you don't have to measure anything.
On one of the Stingray videos they get into the care they have taken and the many years of experience Chevrolet has with Corvette panels and what lengths they went to, to get the Stingray body panels to fit almost perfectly. GM's claim is that the Stingray body panel fit is as good as any car in the world.
Keep in touch, Jim
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 210
Likes: 1
From: Royal Palm Beach FL
Good luck. I don't want them to do that to my car, because I think someone from GM needs to fully understand the source of the misalignment before anyone starts playing with whatever suits their fancy. When these panels are misaligned it could be quite complicated to find the source of the problem. Band-aids won't work here, IMHO.
On my car, one panel leads to the next, and to the next, and pretty soon it's every panel on the car that is not properly aligned...
I can't imagine that replacing the rear fascia panel will solve your alignment problems. Chevrolet has already found out that the rear panel on your car won't align properly with the fenders.
All of these composite panels including the fascia panel are all coming off of a mold made from the same "plug" for each panel, and they should be very close to the exact shape and size. What could make them different is temperature differences of either the mold or the panel during manufacture, and probably, not much else. Surely the engineers have this all figured out. A plastic or composite panel (or mold) will generally expand or change or distort much more for a given change in temperature than a metal panel of the same size and shape.
When the rear fascia won't align chances are one or both of the rear fenders is misaligned. That's getting closer to the source of the problem (again, my humble opinion at work). According to my service manager, they have to cut the car apart from the inside to get at the adhesive holding the rear fenders in place. And that di=oes not leave me with the value of the new Stingray I bought.
Check the panel gaps on all four sides of the rear hatch. They should be parallel and equal and about 3mm or 1/8", according to Tadge Juechter, Chief Engineer. If they are not pretty doggone close to that, or they are tapered, chances one or more other body panels is also misaligned.
If that's the case, and the rear fender fits the rear of the rocker panel properly, chances are one or both rocker panels were misaligned when they were glued (my assumption) in place. My suggestion is to carefully check each rocker panel where it aligns with the front fenders and see of that alignment is the same on both sides of the vehicle, and that the body seams aren't "tapered". On mine, there is a noticeable difference here. You can see it - you don't have to measure anything.
On one of the Stingray videos they get into the care they have taken and the many years of experience Chevrolet has with Corvette panels and what lengths they went to, to get the Stingray body panels to fit almost perfectly. GM's claim is that the Stingray body panel fit is as good as any car in the world.
Keep in touch, Jim
On my car, one panel leads to the next, and to the next, and pretty soon it's every panel on the car that is not properly aligned...
I can't imagine that replacing the rear fascia panel will solve your alignment problems. Chevrolet has already found out that the rear panel on your car won't align properly with the fenders.
All of these composite panels including the fascia panel are all coming off of a mold made from the same "plug" for each panel, and they should be very close to the exact shape and size. What could make them different is temperature differences of either the mold or the panel during manufacture, and probably, not much else. Surely the engineers have this all figured out. A plastic or composite panel (or mold) will generally expand or change or distort much more for a given change in temperature than a metal panel of the same size and shape.
When the rear fascia won't align chances are one or both of the rear fenders is misaligned. That's getting closer to the source of the problem (again, my humble opinion at work). According to my service manager, they have to cut the car apart from the inside to get at the adhesive holding the rear fenders in place. And that di=oes not leave me with the value of the new Stingray I bought.
Check the panel gaps on all four sides of the rear hatch. They should be parallel and equal and about 3mm or 1/8", according to Tadge Juechter, Chief Engineer. If they are not pretty doggone close to that, or they are tapered, chances one or more other body panels is also misaligned.
If that's the case, and the rear fender fits the rear of the rocker panel properly, chances are one or both rocker panels were misaligned when they were glued (my assumption) in place. My suggestion is to carefully check each rocker panel where it aligns with the front fenders and see of that alignment is the same on both sides of the vehicle, and that the body seams aren't "tapered". On mine, there is a noticeable difference here. You can see it - you don't have to measure anything.
On one of the Stingray videos they get into the care they have taken and the many years of experience Chevrolet has with Corvette panels and what lengths they went to, to get the Stingray body panels to fit almost perfectly. GM's claim is that the Stingray body panel fit is as good as any car in the world.
Keep in touch, Jim
thanks
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: PA
Infotainment Screen will not go up
Been searching the internet to see if there is a "reset" to enable my infotainment screen to close and can't find anything.
I opened the screen storage compartment to get my sunglasses out and now the screen will not shut.
It makes a loud continual clicking noise when I put the car in reverse and then stops once in drive. The clicking noise to me indicates the car is trying to raise the screen to no avail.
Called the dealer today and he will check with the mechanic that only fixes vettes tomorrow. I have a feeling the whole screen needs to be replaced.
Has anyone had this issue?
Thanks
I opened the screen storage compartment to get my sunglasses out and now the screen will not shut.
It makes a loud continual clicking noise when I put the car in reverse and then stops once in drive. The clicking noise to me indicates the car is trying to raise the screen to no avail.
Called the dealer today and he will check with the mechanic that only fixes vettes tomorrow. I have a feeling the whole screen needs to be replaced.
Has anyone had this issue?
Thanks
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 194
Likes: 2
From: The Villages FL
"Vapor Lock"?
VIN: 1G1YM3D73E5400055
Automatic
Roadster
Z51 + Mag Ride
On a recent road trip was riding in the right lane of Interstate 26 in SC. Had it set on ECO. Got stuck behind a long line of cars following a dump truck. Watched the left lane and saw an opening, nailed it to pull out and got a response much like the old vapor lock I used to get in my '55 when I was drag racing. The engine, simply put, sagged to the point where I let off, hit it again, and again, it sagged. Finally, on the third try it "caught" but, by that time I was nearly run into by the cars moving up the left lane. Not a good feeling. Ask my SevMgr if he's seen any bulletins or msgs regarding an issue like this and was told, "Nope, haven't seen anything about it." I mentioned this could be considered a safety issue in that I nearly got run over by the cars coming up the left lane and he said I'd simply have to be more careful. Not the answer I was looking for, certainly.
Automatic
Roadster
Z51 + Mag Ride
On a recent road trip was riding in the right lane of Interstate 26 in SC. Had it set on ECO. Got stuck behind a long line of cars following a dump truck. Watched the left lane and saw an opening, nailed it to pull out and got a response much like the old vapor lock I used to get in my '55 when I was drag racing. The engine, simply put, sagged to the point where I let off, hit it again, and again, it sagged. Finally, on the third try it "caught" but, by that time I was nearly run into by the cars moving up the left lane. Not a good feeling. Ask my SevMgr if he's seen any bulletins or msgs regarding an issue like this and was told, "Nope, haven't seen anything about it." I mentioned this could be considered a safety issue in that I nearly got run over by the cars coming up the left lane and he said I'd simply have to be more careful. Not the answer I was looking for, certainly.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,700
Likes: 708
Can consider
Can always consider turning off AFM- nothing like all time V8 power...BTW, still getting 32 MPG on the highway, in V8 only with AFM off. Tools like Diablo Tuner allow for turning off AFM.
VIN: 1G1YM3D73E5400055
Automatic
Roadster
Z51 + Mag Ride
On a recent road trip was riding in the right lane of Interstate 26 in SC. Had it set on ECO. Got stuck behind a long line of cars following a dump truck. Watched the left lane and saw an opening, nailed it to pull out and got a response much like the old vapor lock I used to get in my '55 when I was drag racing. The engine, simply put, sagged to the point where I let off, hit it again, and again, it sagged. Finally, on the third try it "caught" but, by that time I was nearly run into by the cars moving up the left lane. Not a good feeling. Ask my SevMgr if he's seen any bulletins or msgs regarding an issue like this and was told, "Nope, haven't seen anything about it." I mentioned this could be considered a safety issue in that I nearly got run over by the cars coming up the left lane and he said I'd simply have to be more careful. Not the answer I was looking for, certainly.
Automatic
Roadster
Z51 + Mag Ride
On a recent road trip was riding in the right lane of Interstate 26 in SC. Had it set on ECO. Got stuck behind a long line of cars following a dump truck. Watched the left lane and saw an opening, nailed it to pull out and got a response much like the old vapor lock I used to get in my '55 when I was drag racing. The engine, simply put, sagged to the point where I let off, hit it again, and again, it sagged. Finally, on the third try it "caught" but, by that time I was nearly run into by the cars moving up the left lane. Not a good feeling. Ask my SevMgr if he's seen any bulletins or msgs regarding an issue like this and was told, "Nope, haven't seen anything about it." I mentioned this could be considered a safety issue in that I nearly got run over by the cars coming up the left lane and he said I'd simply have to be more careful. Not the answer I was looking for, certainly.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 194
Likes: 2
From: The Villages FL
Thanks, I will definitely look into it. Any warranty voiding issues to deal with??? I can't imagine the dealers can get into the coding as deeply as we can but one never knows.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 194
Likes: 2
From: The Villages FL
These are my issues with my C7, VIN # 1533. Any specific issue help will be helpful, as I went through all 500+ post etc., and I see I have many of the same issues. Items 1 & 2 have been corrected after 7 days in the body shop. Items 3 through 7 not yet addressed by selling dealer.
1a. Driver door hit front fender, chipping the pain, had to be reset and touched up.
1b. The bolts for the left fender were not tightened at factory causing a loud poping sound when travelling rough paved streets
2. Underside of the carbon fiber engine hood not completely painted.
3. Does not always read the Ipod 5 or memory stick when hooked up.
4. When Ipod is bluetoothed can not use the steering wheel button to answer or make call.
5. Hatch / latch is much harder to close than that shown in the demo video.
6. Front brakes squeal at very slow stops.
7. Heat/ AC problems described in of the post. Can seem to override the cool air coming in when temp is 40 or less, enen manually. The A/C unit wants to stay on also.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
1a. Driver door hit front fender, chipping the pain, had to be reset and touched up.
1b. The bolts for the left fender were not tightened at factory causing a loud poping sound when travelling rough paved streets
2. Underside of the carbon fiber engine hood not completely painted.
3. Does not always read the Ipod 5 or memory stick when hooked up.
4. When Ipod is bluetoothed can not use the steering wheel button to answer or make call.
5. Hatch / latch is much harder to close than that shown in the demo video.
6. Front brakes squeal at very slow stops.
7. Heat/ AC problems described in of the post. Can seem to override the cool air coming in when temp is 40 or less, enen manually. The A/C unit wants to stay on also.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Anyway, initially he said they'd have to remove the entire front clip and fender, remount everything "correctly" and it'd be OK. Turns out it only took a minor "tweaking" to get everything aligned properly. They fixed the paint issue on the front edge of my door and I can't tell it was ever rubbed raw. Still have other function/fit problems though.