I was just going by what TireRack has posted about run flats:

“Most run-flat tires make a promise of temporary extended mobility at up to 50 miles per hour speeds for up to 50-mile distances in the event a puncture allows complete air pressure loss. However, even if driven within their speed and distance limitations, driving on run-flat tires with low or no air pressure can permanently damage their internal structure, surrendering strength and durability.

Therefore, Tire Rack recommends driving the slowest safe speed below 50 miles per hour and the shortest distance to a service provider's facility.

Unfortunately, when it's time to consider repair, even a trained tire specialist may be unable to confirm internal structure damage resulting from a run-flat tire having been driven in a severely underinflated or zero pressure condition. Such damage may not be visible on the surfaces of the tire's exterior sidewalls or interior liner, making it impossible to determine tire suitability for repair or reuse. Because of this, Tire Rack and many tire manufacturers recommend replacement of run-flat tires driven in a severely underinflated or zero pressure condition.”.

 

This is from the owner's manual:

"Run-flat tires can be driven on with no air pressure. There is no need to stop on the side of the road to change the tire. Continue driving; however, do not drive too far or too fast. Driving on the tire may not be possible if there is permanent damage. To prevent permanent damage, the tire can be driven with no air pressure for up to 80 km (50 mi) at speeds slower than 80 km/h (50 mph) when carrying a load of driver plus one passenger. When carrying a heavier load, total distance driven without air should be reduced. As soon as possible, contact the nearest authorized GM or run-flat servicing facility for inspection and repair or replacement."

 

Strange that a tire retailer would discourage ever repairing a run flat.

 

A little satire perhaps?

 

saTIRE? I've been bested!

 

I blame lawyers.

 

Well, another one to add to the party: dead battery. Vehicle has been driven quite often in the 8 months since I purchased it, about 4400 miles, has NOT had a lot of idle time and no winter hibernation. Went to go start it today and all sorts of strange things happened, but it wouldn't turn over and a low battery light was flashing. Doors wouldn't even operate, had to use the emergency release levers to exit, and had to remove the license plate to open up the rear hatch so I could get the stuff out that I'd just put in. Interestingly, my 8 year old CL63, which I hadn't driven for two weeks, fired right up. Sigh....

 

Did you accept a software update the last time you used it?

 

No, the time before that (actually several times before that, even)...in each case it failed to install.

 

Maybe a dumb question on my part here, but do you keep the car connected to a battery charger? I ask because I intend to, not necessarily due to lack of anticipated driving/use, but because I have read several times that Vette's can suspiciously draw power when parked.

 

The car is a computer on wheels and it’s always on, how can OnStar track the car with no power?

 

I started using a battery tender when I bought a C6 in November 2019. I owned three Corvettes before the C6 and never kept them on tenders - even my 15 C7 which I had for four years. The C6 is a parasitic drain on batteries.

 

I keep all my vehicles on a trickle charger including motorcycles, C7 & classic car, I will do the same with my C8. Not a big deal

 

I did not keep My C7 on trickle charger in the summer but definitely all winter. I’m thinking I might keep the C8 on the charger. Most cars will only handle a 2-3 week down time because of parasitic draw at least according to electrical engineering in design reviews though that was ten years ago!😎

 

I too, have a dead battery at 4800m. I accepted the update but then was notified update failed. My rear lid latch started flashing 4 D ago then I couldnt open the latch. Today car is a paperweight on a flatbed to the dealer.

 

It definitely looks like a bad battery. After the CTEC displayed error for the fourth time, I hooked up my durabuilt charger directly to the terminals and within a few minutes it returned code F01 (shorted internal, bad battery). I'll get in touch with roadside tomorrow, I'd hope(?) that they have ability to test battery on the spot and replace if bad. Anyone know? I really don't want to flatbed this thing into the dealer.

 

Hopefully GM is reading about all issues associated with the latest OTA update, delivery 3 weeks ago, 180 miles, $90K car, totally unresponsive, only things that work are door locks, mirrors and info center (Battery is NOT dead), everything is due to the latest update, all was good before Friday when I accepted the install. Stuck in park, tow truck is in route. What a POS.....this is my last GM, this is ridiculous. I've owned around 25 new cars in my lifetime, I have NEVER-EVER had an issue like this with a brand new car. GM, get you chi.....together or stop making cars/trucks.

 

You may not be the first, last, ... I am sure many will follow due to the improper charging algorithm that is being used! I leave my frunk open when at home plugged in - JIC for when the inevitable jump start is going to be required. Unbelievable no way to open with a dead battery.

 

There is a way to open if you have a dead battery. It's included in the manual. They didn't make it easy, granted, but every entry or hatch has a manual method.

 

My favorite is having to remove the license plate to open the rear hatch...always keep a quarter or small multi-tool with you, would suck to get stuck with groceries back there!