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I'm curious as to what people think of this build sheet I found. It looks too white to be real based on pictures I've seen of other build sheets and the only thing that's visible on it is the name of the dealership that the car was delivered to:
I have my new letters in a bag on the kitchen table. Got them in s week or so ago. Was hoping to be the easiest part of the build. Your third times a charm comment has me wondering now. Nothing ever easy. LOL.
In carefully manipulating the scroll button on the right side of the screen I can see I've still got the right side slightly lower than the left side, but sometimes you just have to say "After 3 tries this is probably the best I can do."
In regards to your build sheet , my 77 had one that was easily that white ,after dropping the tank with some C.S.I , we reckon it had been left on the tank while the car was wet rubbed back for its repaint and the paper was soaked in the run off water .The whole tank was stained with the run off , looks like the rubber cup was removed and then put back on for the final coat as it was blue like the car, no undercoat.
Attention to detail is what defines a quality build.
Nicely done!
. on both statements.
When I have issues like this and YES It happens to me. I stand back for a while and let it simmer in my mind. If it bothers me enough..then I fix it. which is usually the case because I KNOW ME...when the car is all done and painted my eye would migrate to that area and I would get ticked off...even though I know that probably not one person would ever see what I am seeing.
There is a point when knowing when to stop is a good thing.
When I have issues like this and YES It happens to me. I stand back for a while and let it simmer in my mind. If it bothers me enough..then I fix it. which is usually the case because I KNOW ME...when the car is all done and painted my eye would migrate to that area and I would get ticked off...even though I know that probably not one person would ever see what I am seeing.
There is a point when knowing when to stop is a good thing.
DUB
I decided I'm at that point. I know for example the holes on the "T"s and "E"s should be vertical. When I made my cardboard template from the tail light panel section you sent me and marked it on my rear clip I noticed the marks weren't perfectly vertical on one of the "T"s and one of the "E"s. I adjusted the marks slightly on the panel to make them vertical. Still when I drilled the holes I didn't place the drill bit in exactly the places I marked and the holes weren't vertical. As the long post is a bigger hole than the short post I started with a thinner drill bit sized for the small post and then when I went to make the bigger hole I pushed to one side or the other with the smaller drill bit until I had a bigger hole vertical to the smaller hole. I needed to do a bit of slotting to get the letters even and was able to do so without making the holes so big that the holes show underneath the letters. Given the inevitable bit a person is off on marking and then drilling the holes I think I'm unlikely to get this any closer on a fourth attempt and there's a good chance I'd be farther off If I redid it yet another time.
So, sometimes, like you say, you need to know when to stop.
So, sometimes, like you say, you need to know when to stop.
EXACTLY...and here is a good one for you.
Now...getting these letters to where you are happy with them. When you start applying primer, paint and clear. These holes will close up. SO...when you go to put them on. What I do is use the drill bit and manually run it through the holes....BIT....here is where it can get really touchy.
IF the larger hole for the emblem is so precise that when you put the letter into it...and then have to take it back out for some reason. The correct nuts used can cut grooves (threads) in the shaft of the letter...thus changing its diameter....because the metal that now has thread on it has to be able to go somewhere. And when you try to take the letter back out...it can grab the primer, paint etc you applied on the panel and cause it to chip off.....and that can still happen if you are really diligent in paying attention to the prep of the fiberglass around those holes. And this goes for all emblems that go through the fiberglass.
Do not think that the small holes for these letters are not just as important...they may need attention also.
Sometimes I have to tell myself "Let it go"......like....when I spent 3 hours repairing the '68 clock/had it working perfectly/decided to tweak the mainspring.............................. BROKE IT.
Last edited by doorgunner; Feb 10, 2017 at 09:39 PM.
Today I drilled the holes for the tail light housings. Once again, ACI Fiberglass put indentations supposedly where the holes for the housings go. I got smart this time and didn't trust them. I took both styles of housings and made cardboard templates with the location of the bolts on the housing and the lens screw hole facing the top of the opening. I put a wet coat of some white-out on the housing bolt holes, pressed in the cardboard circle against the bolt studs and marked the location of the topmost screw hole from the back:
Just for illustration I outlined with a black sharpie the ACI indentations to show how far off they were:
Hi P,
There really is something beautiful about those taillights in the gently curved taillight panel!
Especially when the bumpers are mounted and you see the reflection of the lenses in the chrome! (So you still have something terrific to look forward to.)
I don't think you'll ever drill a hole again without testing first!
Regards,
Alan
Hi P,
There really is something beautiful about those taillights in the gently curved taillight panel!
Especially when the bumpers are mounted and you see the reflection of the lenses in the chrome! (So you still have something terrific to look forward to.)
I don't think you'll ever drill a hole again without testing first!
Regards,
Alan