Priya's 79 chrome bumper conversion project
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 19,233
Likes: 1,672
From: Long Island
Just a thought..
You can use a heat lamp to cure the resin. There are 2 hardeners for the system. One is a slow cure and one is a quicker cure which is also better in cold temperatures. They have a very good Q&A web site. Their help site and help line is really good.
It does sound like the resin was very cold and wet out was difficult. When the resin went to B stage it may have generated heat and thinned allowing it to run. I repaired a fiberglass ladder in late November ( the lip was split from my neighbor dropping his ladder) and had to use heat lamps to cure the epoxy due to the cold temp.( repaired outside) My workshop is heated and kept at 62 degrees so mixing and wet out for that job was not bad.
A digital scale from Harbor Freight will make the make the mixing task easier. I use the scale as I sometimes make very small batches. I use Acetone to clean and thin the epoxy. It does extend the cure times.
I would suggesting getting a FREE subscription to their magazine. The tips and instructions are great for both epoxy and polyester resins. The amount of uses for the resin systems and hints in the magazine is amazing.
Don't let it get to you the transformation you are doing looks amazing.
You can use a heat lamp to cure the resin. There are 2 hardeners for the system. One is a slow cure and one is a quicker cure which is also better in cold temperatures. They have a very good Q&A web site. Their help site and help line is really good.
It does sound like the resin was very cold and wet out was difficult. When the resin went to B stage it may have generated heat and thinned allowing it to run. I repaired a fiberglass ladder in late November ( the lip was split from my neighbor dropping his ladder) and had to use heat lamps to cure the epoxy due to the cold temp.( repaired outside) My workshop is heated and kept at 62 degrees so mixing and wet out for that job was not bad.
A digital scale from Harbor Freight will make the make the mixing task easier. I use the scale as I sometimes make very small batches. I use Acetone to clean and thin the epoxy. It does extend the cure times.
I would suggesting getting a FREE subscription to their magazine. The tips and instructions are great for both epoxy and polyester resins. The amount of uses for the resin systems and hints in the magazine is amazing.
Don't let it get to you the transformation you are doing looks amazing.
Last edited by BLUE1972; Mar 24, 2017 at 12:45 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2013
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While the upper quarter panels on the 70-73 ACI rear clip and the 79 are very similar they are a little rounder on the 79 where the bonding seams are. To blend them together I will need to sand away the bonding strip from the inside of the 79 quarter panel and fill the inside of the 79 quarter panel with fiberglass so I can remove the roundness on the outside of the 79 upper quarter panel to match the upper quarter on the ACI rear clip. I fiberglassed the seams together so that when I remove the bonding strip from the inside of the 79 quarter panel the quarter panel won't fall off the upper deck panel.
R
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
I understand now why you did what you did.
I also do not like to use heat.... BUT...I will if the shop temperatures are really cold and I need to warm up the area and I get it to a maintained temp...which I usually shoot for ambient air temps (70-85 degrees F) if possible.
Did you buy the pumps that can go into the cans of resin and hardener so all you need to do is pump out the same number of pumps of each product to get your mix correct???
I guess acetone is OK to use to thin the resin...ask what 'BLUE1972' stated. I prefer to not thin it myself. I do know that thinning products often times does matter on how much it is thinned...because over thinning it can ruin it...much like having too much water in a concrete mix. But....to each his/her own on that one.
DUB
I also do not like to use heat.... BUT...I will if the shop temperatures are really cold and I need to warm up the area and I get it to a maintained temp...which I usually shoot for ambient air temps (70-85 degrees F) if possible.
Did you buy the pumps that can go into the cans of resin and hardener so all you need to do is pump out the same number of pumps of each product to get your mix correct???
I guess acetone is OK to use to thin the resin...ask what 'BLUE1972' stated. I prefer to not thin it myself. I do know that thinning products often times does matter on how much it is thinned...because over thinning it can ruin it...much like having too much water in a concrete mix. But....to each his/her own on that one.
DUB
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,397
Likes: 649
From: Saskatoon Saskatchewan
Yes, I did buy the pumps. I read the instructions and it said mix 5:1 or 1 pump of each. I was confused initially because the pumps weren't putting out a full stroke and it seemed like the pump of hardener was the same volume as the pump of resin. Also, although I had the slow hardener I wasn't comfortable with the stated 20 minute working time so I wanted to use less hardener to give me 1/2 hour or more.
We keep the garage at 40 F but when I go out to work on the car I turn the temperature up to 70 F. This of course does not give enough time to let the resin warm up to 70 F. Next time I'll take the resin in the house and bring it out to the garage only when I'm ready to use it.
We keep the garage at 40 F but when I go out to work on the car I turn the temperature up to 70 F. This of course does not give enough time to let the resin warm up to 70 F. Next time I'll take the resin in the house and bring it out to the garage only when I'm ready to use it.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Priya.
IF the resin and hardener are cold....when you pump it out....do it really slow....so you get full pump. And then you have to let the pump come back up REALLY SLOW so it can draw in more resin or hardener that is thick.
I have run into that also when I used it a long time ago when it was cold and the pump seemed to be like it was 'spitting'....which screwed up my mixes.
That is when I realized I was trying to pump out cold molasses...which was just not working well. Once I got both warmed up well...the pumps worked much easier and the resin mix actually saturated the mat very well.
DUB
IF the resin and hardener are cold....when you pump it out....do it really slow....so you get full pump. And then you have to let the pump come back up REALLY SLOW so it can draw in more resin or hardener that is thick.
I have run into that also when I used it a long time ago when it was cold and the pump seemed to be like it was 'spitting'....which screwed up my mixes.
That is when I realized I was trying to pump out cold molasses...which was just not working well. Once I got both warmed up well...the pumps worked much easier and the resin mix actually saturated the mat very well.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Long Island
I checked my files and still have West systems user Manual Product 002-950. I think it's still free from West Systems.
One Item I learned the hard way - the shop was kept at 45 all weekend, heated the shop and had issues with the repair - realized the item getting repaired was still at 55 degrees due to it's mass.
This link may help.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com › Home › How Tos
One Item I learned the hard way - the shop was kept at 45 all weekend, heated the shop and had issues with the repair - realized the item getting repaired was still at 55 degrees due to it's mass.
This link may help.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com › Home › How Tos
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,397
Likes: 649
From: Saskatoon Saskatchewan
So the seams were hard enough to sand today. I thought I'd get away with just sanding through the white areas at the top of the seam shown in the picture above but once I sanded past those areas I never did get to what I felt was solid glass work so I ended up sanding it all off. The wasted time doesn't bother me so much as the cost of the lost materials.
Last edited by Priya; Mar 27, 2017 at 06:29 PM.
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So the seams were hard enough to sand today. I thought I'd get away with just sanding through the white areas at the top of the seam shown in the picture above but once I sanded past those areas I never did get to what I felt was solid glass work so I ended up sanding it all off. The wasted time doesn't bother me so much as the cost of the lost materials.
What will you do now....VPA? glass fiber and resin?
Best wishes whichever way you go.
Dennis
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Saskatoon Saskatchewan
I'm going back to the mat and resin. I took another inch off the 70-73 ACI rear clip today and I'll have to narrow up the upper quarters on the 79 a fair bit to get a match so I think the fiberglass base is the best for mating later glass work to.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
Getting a fiberglass roller would aid you greatly. I KNOW that using a paint brush can work...but if you are worried about air pockets, etc...then a roller would make this go so much easier and actually give you a lamination that will be a strong foundation.....because....a lamination that has countless small air bubbles in it is...in my opinion....worthless.
DUB
DUB
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,176
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From: perth western australia
I just assumed you were using one , they give a much better quality finish .Here's the $10 one I use , just wash it off with acetone on a rag at the end . occasionally I pull the wire out and clean out the holes with a drill bit. Just make sure it turns freely before you start.
you can get bigger but I haven't needed one yet.
P.S its just a length of stainless steel all thread with a couple of shallow holes drilled in each end
you can get bigger but I haven't needed one yet.
P.S its just a length of stainless steel all thread with a couple of shallow holes drilled in each end
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
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From: Charlotte NC
They are definitely worth their weight...and there are different ones when you are laminating with the cloth that do not look like those pictured above.
And I AGREE...cleaning it very well when you are done is imperative. Nothing is worse to go and get it and the roller is locked up and will not spin.
DUB
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,397
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From: Saskatoon Saskatchewan
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Orlando FL
Sometimes it`s good to sit down a minute, and go back through your pictures.... starting at the beginning. You will soon realize just how much you`ve done, and how far you`ve already come. It`s encouraging.