It seems the heads are truly vortec and matched to a vortec manifold & vortec intake gasket .... that the vestige of a blocked boss in the "old-style" exhaust xover position is moot ... I dunno why that casting is there but since it is blocked & does nothing then it ain't an issue. I looked at another vortec head and it does have the same blocked casting as seen in this motor's pics.

It seems the end-user performed a breakin according to vendor's instructions.

It seems the motor started & ran well so it seems the ignition timing should not be at issue.

Being "hard" on hypereutectic pistons should not be an issue either because ... most cars these days come equipped with them ... all ZZ4 motors do ... several motors I've built for racing do ... I'm not aware of piston failures in those motors due to "hard" running within first minute of running. Actually, it's the low-silicon, high-expansion forged pistons that need a bit time to warm & expand ... usually the higher-end forged pistons made of 2618 alloy are setup with lots of clearance ... those 2618 forged pistons need warmup. Hypereutectic are high-silicon, low-expansion and are fitted tightly and do not need extra warmup time.

Based on what's been shown so far ... I have a sense the motor failed due to vendor's improper assembly and/or vendor's defective parts. I have a strong suspicion the root cause(s) may be inadequate ring gap and/or inadequate piston-to-bore clearance.

 

looking at it, and considering the engine has KB hypers...my betting money is on the ring gap also. If it was a piston to bore clearance issue it would seize at the widest part of the barrel shape and that's not the top ring land.

 

After all your problems with the old motor we were all rooting for you to get lucky. I wouldnt tell those guys crap about what you did or didnt do, i.e. driving it or timing. Tell them you started it and 10 minutes later it turned into the tapioca mess you have now. I'm not saying lie , just omit some items. Selective memory so to speak.
ESU

 

Besides who is to say that it wasn't whipping up that milkshake almost immediately???? From the looks of it, it was mixing for a while. So it might have been leaking from the moment you started it, and just got progressivly worse until the piston broke.

 

I agree... it had to be whipping the oil/water mixture for a while.

It may be time to change your signature...

"1981 vette........New crate motor with 385hp, 405 ft/# of torque, no computer, no smog, true dual exhaust. Presently running, and smiling!!"

 

Talked with ole Clarence the "Claims Specialist" again.....They want the engine back for inspection. He did mention detonation, but quickly added they would not know what caused it until the got it back. He dodged every question I asked him like a well schooled attorney. Was already talking like they could get me another motor ready asap and chit....of course he said they would have to charge for it.

Not sure what to do here boys.....I know if I send the motor back I'm screwed. Should I find a local shop to evaluate the motor, dispute the credit card purchase until this is resolved? That's what I'm thinking because I know I want another opinion as the cause than just theirs.

Dayum.......

He mentioned possible head damage if detonation was the cause. I'm screwed......

Anybody want a discounted crate motor?

 

It sounds like you are going to pull the motor no matter what. Pop the oil pan and take pics of the bottom end. (The bad cylinder).

Do you have any reason not to trust them? How may others have you talked to that have used this company? If I built the motor I know I would want first look at determining the cause before someone else disturbed the "evidence". Perhaps now is the time to show him how many are watching.

 

pull the piston and check if the ring is broken, if it's intact put it back in the bore and press it down w/ the piston upside down..that will put it in square. Then measure the end gap..check this at several positions in the bore because IF the bore is tapered for some reason and they set the gap on top it will be too small at the bottom and cause seisure..even if they set the gap properly at the top. That way you can have proof if the ring gap is the culprit.

 

I should probably just cut my losses and rebuild with the good parts and my original block. The way the engine was still running, and still able to crank the next day tells me that the internals should be okay. Worst case is I'm out a block and a piston if I rebuild myself.

I have doubts whether this was "their" fault, or mine. Not sure. But I would think they would determine detonation no matter what as that is what it "appears" to be.

Why was just one cylinder affected if detonation? Weakest link?

 

The motor never seized. It cranked the next morning and was running when I cut it off.

 

no, wrong ring gap in that cylinder...read my post above..it's the single most logical explanation.

 

Msvetteman…there is no way that your damage was caused by detonation. You would have heard and felt the detonation on your drive.

I am only an engineer, not a layer, but I would tell them that sending the engine back is not an option. They will have to come up with a better method to support you. If you send the engine back without written confirmation that you will get a new one, or a refund there is an increased risk of taking it up the a&&. Even if they do decide that it was your fault do you think they will ship you back the broken engine? There are still a lot of good parts on it that you have paid for.

Call the Credit Card Co. tell them your situation, they may not be able to withhold payment, but they may not. I’m sure that they deal with this kind of stuff all the time.

Have you mentioned this thread to them, if not now is the time. 6200+ readers (potential customers) is a big number.

Just my thoughts.

 

well..if you are scared of them denying/destroying the evidence you could ask them to pick a shop in your area to have the piston removed for inspection....you could tell them you want third party verification of the damage.....you may even be able to get the credit card company to weigh in on your behalf on this one.....you would be paying for the service....

do they recommend shops for installs in your area?


also don't be surprised if you have a spun connecting rod bearing, there may be more damage to the internals then you are thinking, i say go for broke and push the burden on them and if you have a plausible story re the ring end gap push that theory forward....and get independent verification of it....before sending it back , then you have a really good chance of getting the credit card company on your side

 

I would also offer to pay for the inspection if it's determined to, somehow, be your fault that the engine blew.
Once you send it back to Blueprint, they will determine it to be your fault. They won't necessarily be dishonest, just not objective.

 

now is about the time my patience would be run out. Time to mount an offensive instead of working along side them. sounds like its each his own now.

 

but even more you need them to deny your theory...and come up with there own......if you send it to them then they are only coming up with their own theory

 

I've been watching this thread and I haven't seen one thing that tells me this could be your fault. I also don't believe that it was dyno tested.

As far as taking it apart to check the ring gap, it's kind of a catch-22. If you do it, you could be accused of tampering with the motor thus voiding your warranty. If you don't, you're trusting the engine builder to tell you what happened. I'm not sure what I'd do, but it can't hurt for them to know that there are a lot of potential customers reading this thread. Every engine builder screws up once in a while, but a reputable one will do what it takes to make it right. If not, their warranty isn't worth the paper it's printed on. I any case I wish you luck.

 

Get you credit card company involved!!! F them if they want to charge you for another motor..

Do we know for sure if the block is cracked? Do we know where the water got into the motor?

 

we are missing the obvious here....CREDIT CARD company resolution center.......get them involved and insist on local third party verification that you will pay for....how can they deny that?????all you have to do is get the Credit Card company on your side ......you don't have to get the engine company on your side

 

Very true..