C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 11:09 AM
  #381  
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See? Easy peasy.

Do you have an air chisel?

Just run that in the end between the two bushings like a wedge. It pops both out.
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 11:16 AM
  #382  
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
See? Easy peasy.

Do you have an air chisel?

Just run that in the end between the two bushings like a wedge. It pops both out.
I do. The bushings are “staked”, no ? Don’t it have to drill out an end ?
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Old Jan 4, 2020 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DorianC3
I do. The bushings are “staked”, no ? Don’t it have to drill out an end ?
Yes. Take like a 3/4"? HS drill bit and chew off the staked end.
Drive the chisel between the two.

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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 02:27 PM
  #384  
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I dig...








First one is a doozy. The second




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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 03:31 AM
  #385  
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Default Hurry up and wait !

Just a brief update. All the parts I need to get to the next step are ordered: basically everything needed to rebuild the rear suspension, all the brake calipers and the drive line. I decided to go with the heim-joint strut rods and rubber bushings for the trailing arms. Two items are on back order : one rear brake caliper O-ring conversion kit and a tool to press in and stake the trailing arm bushings.

Another non-related part I picked up was a power steering pump restrictor. I like the Borgeson, but it feels over-boosted.

In addition, I purchased a few "luxury" items.
- Floor mats, Dark Blue with 'Stingray' script embroidered. "Stingray" because I think that needs a little more reminder... and Dark Blue, because my Bright Blue carpet is already getting soiled. Getting a set of Bright Blue floor mats would only be more of the same.
- T-cushion. Having driven the car some longer distances, I see now why these are nice to have. (Hm, a cup holder would also have been a good idea.)
- T-top bag. Here again, I am not sure this really is a luxury item. Throwing the T-tops in the back seem like a good way to damage them. I bought the black ones (cheaper) and will spray them Bright Blue since I have the dye.

Stay tuned.

BTW - I was not able to remove the "stake" from the second trailing arms. I was busted down to sawing through the middle. Unfortunately, my new sawzall quit 3/4 of the way through #frustrating Until I get that bushing out, I can't really start cleaning up the TA.

Last edited by DorianC3; Jan 9, 2020 at 03:54 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2020 | 10:51 AM
  #386  
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Right. Time to focus on the seized shock mount.


I was surprised how fast the Dremel cutting wheel got through the steel. It only took me a few minutes with some breaks in between to check progress. I will not be reusing the strut. Heim-joint rods are on order.


Pried it open



Slid the rubber out.



From there it was easy enough to wrench off the strut.



I located the join line of the inner bushing and went lightly over it with the cutting wheel.



After prying that open it loosened up entirely so that it spins around the shock mount. I decided to leave it in there for support when I attempt to knock out the shock mounts. I have read stories about broken off ears. In the meantime I will hit it with WD40 every eve and maybe some heat. I will bFH.e using one of those knocker tools that thread over the end plus a BFH.

Last edited by DorianC3; Jan 12, 2020 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2020 | 12:30 PM
  #387  
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The threads on those look pretty tired.
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 03:59 AM
  #388  
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
The threads on those look pretty tired.
Agreed; I had noticed as well. I hope they will still be serviceable... and that I will be able to knock them out.
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 09:24 AM
  #389  
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Use a propane torch, and give them a few heat cycles. Not too hot like red, just hot.
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 10:09 AM
  #390  
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Will do !
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 11:39 AM
  #391  
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So, here we are again.

Originally I was planning to leave the bearings for another day. Mine seemed to be ok. But then I discovered this:





Best as I can tell, Bubba installed the spindle before the dust shield and plasma cut it in half to put it on.
Yes, I could make this work, but this really flies in the face of all the work I have done up to now. I might as well take everything apart, clean, paint, install new bearings, do it right and be done with it. I took advantage of Willcox's 20% off and ordered new dust shields, bearings and tools.

Once I am finished with this the only thing to do with the rear would be the carrier.

Last edited by DorianC3; Jan 19, 2020 at 11:42 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 11:49 AM
  #392  
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Once I am finished with this the only thing to do with the rear would be the carrier.[/QUOTE]
AND???
Its winter, its there and what else do you have to do???
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 12:37 PM
  #393  
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Originally Posted by OldCarBum
AND???
Its winter, its there and what else do you have to do???
Well, the real issue is, with all the other parts I’ve got coming, I’m already in for nearly $2k. This is adding on another $500. I’m spread thinner than I want on this.

On the other hand:
a. It’ll be done and done right
b. I look forward to doing this... mainly having clean dust covers, a parking brake that works, and, well... all of it.

Last edited by DorianC3; Jan 19, 2020 at 12:38 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 12:41 PM
  #394  
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All this work I’m doing should transform the car as well as the driving experience. That vibration should be gone with replacing all the U-joints. The vagueness of the rear should be cured. The over-boost of the power steering will be reigned in.

Most important of all: peace of mind.
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 12:42 PM
  #395  
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There is always next winter. Gives you time to contact GTR1999 and see what you should collect this summer.
Just plan for it best you can.
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 03:43 PM
  #396  
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So, I tried to impact off the castellated but and that didn’t work. I came up with an unorthodox way of holding the spindle while I use some extended leverage.



Not pretty, but I grabbed whatever I had around.



What was it that Archimedes once said ?




Threads look clean



Looks like someone has done this job not so long ago. This looks récent, though I could not tell you how recent
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 10:53 PM
  #397  
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
There is always next winter. Gives you time to contact GTR1999 and see what you should collect this summer.
Just plan for it best you can.
This is the best advice anyone can give you.
I saved for one year so Gary, GTR1999, could build my rear differential.
There is someone else who will tell you he can do it cheaper, but "beware", that guy is a liar and a thief.
Check my thread in the Transaction Feedback section on this forum.

Contact Gary and ask him what you need to do this job correctly.
He will talk to you and give you excellent advice even though is isn't earning a penny from you.

Last edited by OldCarBum; Jan 19, 2020 at 10:55 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2020 | 05:42 AM
  #398  
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One small step at the time...




FWIW... the shims are marked and ready to be replicated.




If this is the drain hole...




Then all this dust needs to come out ! I will have to drill new hols for the stainless steel shim retaining pins. All of this will get a coat of rust converter/inhibitor.

Last edited by DorianC3; Jan 20, 2020 at 05:43 AM.
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Old Jan 20, 2020 | 05:58 AM
  #399  
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Yep , that's the drain hole for the reinforcing area , might have to hammer up an old screwdriver or similar to bust that crud apart.
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Old Jan 26, 2020 | 11:41 AM
  #400  
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While the suspension is apart at the rear, I pulled the seats back out. I still have to dye them and fully reassemble them.

One of the brackets under the seat broke. So I outsourced it to my neighbor youth. (He’s working on an 80s VW Passat). He practiced his welding skills and did a great job.





Last edited by DorianC3; Jan 27, 2020 at 03:20 AM.
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