When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Testing paint strip removal on a sacrificial part that clearly came from a more recent C3. I managed to find a product that does not seem the harm the vinyl and preserves the textured grain.
I'd wager thisvent is from an earlier C3... might as well experiment on it. If I replace any panel, it will be this one.
I finally managed to find a paint stripper that does not harm the texture of the vinyl. This is going to take forever. The technique I am using tedious.
Then I am going to have to find a way to fix these... JB weld come to mind.
Last edited by DorianC3; Oct 27, 2018 at 10:45 PM.
with the bottom Arm being bent at the bushing mount, if it were mine I would straighten it before taking it off. Those ends aren't really that hard to move.
with the panel , the 68 coupe had an interior light in a hole where your vent piece is , Also coupes with the rear window de-mister options had the vent outlet same (or similar) to yours.
I figured while the engine is out and the hood is off, the headlight assembly could do with some attention.
I got a closer look at the bumper grills and found that they were rattling. Both brackets holding the parking lights were missing the upper screws. Again, why you would not bother reinstalling is beyond me.
The clutch push rod that you showed being bent is supposed to be bent. Here is a photo of one off of Willcox's site..
Using epoxy to hold in those threaded inserts is do-able.
And not that it matters but the sheet metal screw you used to hold the park grille bracket to the headlight support housing should be a 10-24 machine screw.
Using epoxy to hold in those threaded inserts is do-able.
Which insert ???
Originally Posted by DUB
And not that it matters but the sheet metal screw you used to hold the park grille bracket to the headlight support housing should be a 10-24 machine screw.
Well, I am with you there. It does matter to me. Sometimes I have to weigh my decisions. The challenge I have here is fastener availability. Metric rules here.
In the photo below the damaged area where your machine screws that hold on your trim get mounted. There are threaded inserts that can fill in the damaged are where the original pulled out and still also have a 6-32 ( I believe) threads inside it so you can screw your trim back on. That is what I was referring to that you can epoxy in if needed.
Below is what the threaded insert can look like., many different types so this is just an example.
I've used these before and they work great. They are also available with two attached pins, perpendicular to the threads that you can tap in with a punch which adds additional grip between the insert and the material you are screwing them into.
Putting the jack stands where GM says to put them can cause for problems...especially on how much front end weight is hanging past the fulcrum point of where you have your jack stand...which is at the hinge post.
This has been discussed about many times....and you can do as you see fit with your Corvette. But I can tell you that IF I had the jack stand at the hinge post like you have it...my floor jack would still be under the center of the engine cradle and provide some lift also so the front end would not sag...because it can.
DUB
DUB is rite on the mark mate you need support under the front cross member
as you have the car on the stands there is a lot of strain on the doors and front guards at the windscreen area as well as the tee tops
Bfit
DUB is rite on the mark mate you need support under the front cross member
as you have the car on the stands there is a lot of strain on the doors and front guards at the windscreen area as well as the tee tops
Bfit
Ya. I did it once the GM way... not twice. It made me very uncomfortable
In the photo below the damaged area where your machine screws that hold on your trim get mounted. There are threaded inserts that can fill in the damaged are where the original pulled out and still also have a 6-32 ( I believe) threads inside it so you can screw your trim back on. That is what I was referring to that you can epoxy in if needed.
Thanks OldCarBum and Dub. I'll get a set of these !
The vent switches were binding with the slots of the climate control panel.
Upon closer look, I would same someone ground the slot out from the back with a large wheel. Man, I would not have done it that way...
Some careful file work and less than an hour later:
No more binding. I do not think I will repaint this... I think it may end up not looking as good. Maybe I'll try to touch up those minor nicks and scratches.