Thanks for this. Mine is chirping a little. I'll have to get a real good look at it this weekend and make sure everything is in perfect alignment.

 

Bee Jay,

Both of the hoses are pieced together from two sections, like Ignatz did with his. Most of it is silicone hose from Pegasus Racing (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ad...=3COOLHOSESIZE), along with a plastic hose joiner from Autozone and an aluminum connector from eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Temp-...item48b256b516) that allowed me to run my steam line to the upper hose. I also used a Dayco hose #E72238 that had the correct bend for the radiator inlet.

I had to adapt the upper hose from 1.25" on the water pump to 1.5" (38mm) on the radiator. So I used a 90 degree silicone adapter (1.25" on one leg, 1.5" on the other) from the water pump to the aluminum hose joiner that my steam line tees into. From there, the Dayco connects to the radiator inlet. I would have preferred to use a silicone hose there too, but the one I had was was too short and had too much bend to it.




The lower hose went from 1.75" on the radiator to 1.5" on the water pump. For that one, I used a 45 degree silicone adapter hose (1.5" to 1.75") from the thermostat housing, the plastic hose joiner, and a 45 degree silicone hose (1.75") connecting to the water pump.

I hope that helps.
-Chris

 

I’ve been busy working and living life. I went to the LS Fest West and got some motivation.
Shortening the oil lines was easy. Using my dremell, I just cut off the hose crimps on one end, cut the hose to correct length, and put it back together using worm clamps.
if you are using a corvette water pump, and C3 radiator, you need this Upper radiator hose. Gates #22997. Your welcome.

 

OP, I have enjoyed your thread. Lookin forward to seeing your car hit the street. Good luck.

 

The Sniper fuel injection is bolted on, and it’s obvious that no air cleaner will fit and allow the hood to close. Soo ordered this 3” rise hood from J&D Corvettes in LA. Should be ready in a few weeks. I want to vent it, so I’ll probably use a C7 hood vent like this. I’m still wiring and plumbing, which is a full time job.

 

I looked at that high-rise hood and the L88 hoods when I was considering an Individual Throttle Body (ITB) intake, because I didn't like the thought of using just the screens on them.
I also wanted a way to vent out some of the air coming through the radiator, so I came up with a rough idea in my mind, but hadn't put it on paper (or pixels) til now.

Please forgive my rough drawing. I'm working out at San Nicolas Island this week and have very limited choices for photo editing programs on this PC.


My idea was to use a high rise hood and add an airbox underneath (shown in blue for a single carb) that seals it off from the heat of the engine compartment.
Air would be drawn in from the opening at the back and I'd probably add a grille from a mid-70s hood (shown in yellow, on the right) to provide a larger opening and to give it a little bit of an OEM look.
Between the intake and the rear opening I was condisdering putting in a K&N panel filter (shown in dark red) laying down at an angle. In your case, you could just keep the round air filter assembly, or put a round filter in the hood and an L-88 style screen on top of the throttle body to keep debris out of the motor when the hood is open.

Up toward the front, I would cut the hood open near the top of the front slope and then make a large opening that curves down into the engine compartment just ahead of the motor. I would also build sides to it and put some mesh at the front to keep trash out of the engine compartment.
I'm thinking of something along the lines of what Jake Rozelle did with his C5, but not nearly as extreme. Jake also layed his radiator forward, but that doesn't work too well on our C3s because of the way our hood hinges are.



It's another option to consider, and it would be something a little different than most people have.

I might still have a stock '75 hood with partial airbox and rear grille. I can check upstairs at home when I get back next week.

Thanks for all the updates.
I love seeing the progress your making.
-Chris

 

How about something like the '19 ZR1 does. cut the opening in the hood large enough, mount the air cleaner and rear opening duct to your carb/f.i. setup and seal the air box to the bottom of the hood to prevent water dripping onto the engine. Add the air extractor vents to the forward part of the hood.

 

I needed four water access points. I plumbed the steam vent to a 3/8” npt hole I drilled the top of the water pump. The MSD ignition controller water temp sensor to the drivers side head, the Sniper FI water temp sensor to a 3/8” npt hole in the side of the water pump, and the Auto Meter gauge temp sensor in the passenger side head. The ignition controller is wired up. I think I’m getting close.

 

Lower radiator hose constructed.

 

Major problem. I’m bolting an LS7 to my 700R4. After I bolted the tranny, torque converter, and engine block together, the flexplate was too close to the starter and there was a slight interference. I was told that I needed this GM spacer placed between the crank and flexplate. It moves the flexplate back .400” and away from the starter. But when I bolted the tranny, torque converter, engine together, everything binded and would not rotate. I had to back the transmission off .120” to unbind the torque converter. I got a new torque converter from Summit. If I bolt everything together without the spacer, the torque converter will have to come forward .300” to bolt to the flexplate. Is that too far out? Should I have this .400” spacer turned down .120”?

GM style spacer, .400” thick.

 

I disassembled and reassembled without the spacer, and took some careful measurements. The spacer is supposed to be .400”, but it is actually .410”. No biggie, it’s too fat at either measurement. I think the unicorns would fart rainbows and everybody would dance and sing with joy if this spacer was .300”. It would move the flexplate back to the converter, leaving room to expand when hot, and give the nose of the converter somewhere to park. The adapter is useless. I need to find someone to machine this spacer down to .300”.
Thoughts?

 

That’s an easy thing for a machine shop. Cut it in a lathe and then hit it on a surface grinder to make sure it is true.

 

Throwing out some ideas and nothing based on first hand knowledge. I'll start with this. I'll assume the dimension from the trans mounting surface on the block to the flywheel surface on the crank is the same for all production LS engines. That said, can we assume that a F car a LS engine with and automatic trans "could" use the same flexplate as a LS7- balance not taken into consideration, just dimension wise? Some LS7 engines I've worked on have a thin shim between the flywheel and crank. Thin as in 0.015". I do have a blown LS7 in the shop and a Y car auto trans flexplate I could bolt together and take whatever measurements you want. Is that flexplate you pictured for a LS or some other application? Is it installed facing the right way? Torque converter fully seated in the trans? IF you need that spacer or a 0.300" spacer, are the bolts long enough to safely bolt the flexplate to the crank?

 

I suspect that this LS7 crank, which has different nose dimensions because of the dry sump oil pump, has a different dimension on the backside also. Can you compare the LS7 crank to another Gen IV LS crank. This spacer should have worked.

 

Tell me what you want me to check. I have a LS6 and 7 on the floor, and a 2016 LT-1. Honestly, I do not think there is a difference. I've used production LS7 flywheels and clutches on LS6's and 2's, and 3's. Equally so, I have used the same part number Spec and Exedy clutches on all these engines also. That tells me the crank face to bellhousing face dimension is the same. I also have converted LS7's to wet sump.

 

Something just came to mind, is there a pilot bearing installed in the crank?

 

Can you check the rear flange thickness please? I understand there are two sizes. 0.857” and 1.250”.
No pilot bearing.
Thanks.

 

I can do that on Tuesday when I go back to work.

 

I owe you a beer. The pilot bearing was in there. I assumed it wasn’t because I didn’t put one there. I guess LS7 cranks ship with pilot bearings installed. I removed it. The adapter slips in now. But, It did not change the geometry. The converter still has to come out 3/10” to contact the flexplate. Book says 3/16” max. The .410 spacer will still bind the engine tranny. I was reminded that the converter needs 1/8” free play, so I need to have the spacer be .300” thick minus .125” for free play. The spacer needs to be .175” thick. .275” machined off of this .410”spacer. Check my math.

 

I have an auto trans flexplate that I can bolt to the back of the 7 and also take some measurements. Looking at your plate, is it dished? I'll have to look at the one I have to see if it is dished or not. If dished, what is the distance from the crank side mounting flange to the center of the teeth on the ring gear? Whose flexplate are you using?