Very good question.. I would like to know the answer to that myself.....

 

me, also.

 

Thanks for the note. Good point, but I thought that the cylinder deactivation process happened only when you select the "E" mode. My problem happens when it is in "S" and "T" as well. Does it make sense?

 

Initially I though it was my imagination, but I have the same tilt in my C7. Curious to find out if that is a set up issue.

 

I've been through this with other cars, but this time I got the mechanic to drive with me and then drive himself so that he could hear and duplicate the noise. Then he brought yet another mechanic and both heard the noise. There are no excuses this time.

 

Hope this problem gets resolved! Guy I work with has a C7 but I've only heard great things about it.

 

Hi there,

If you haven't already, please private message us your full VIN, dealer name, and contact info. If you could also include this post, we'd be glad to get the ball rolling on your situation!

Marissa
Chevrolet Customer Care

 

I have a Z51 A6 and have had it since late Oct, noticed noise and rattling coming from what appears to be under the car and to the rear. This noise has increased over the last few weeks and took it in to the dealer today. The tech checked it out and it appears the bearings associate with the drive shaft have a problem. Being it's Friday they will not know the details till Monday, so I guess it's wait and see the final diagnosis. Service writer estimates it could be up to two weeks for repair???

I have searched and could not find any drive shaft issues.

I will update when I know the details.

As a side note, this car #170 was manufactured on 8/28 and spent time at Roush Industries, Lavonia MI, delivery to my dealer was 10/27- Still do not know what Roush performed.

UPDATE:

They have determined the driveshaft bearings are at fault, they have inspected the torque tube and no problems there. They received the front and back bearings today and will install them tomorrow, I will have them check for updates and have an oil change after the bearing job so should get the car back Mon or Tue next week. UPDATE TWO (Same Day) it appears they received the wrong bearings, GM has decided that the whole assembly will be replaced so a new drive shaft and torque tube assembly are being sent over night to my dealer (that's a better solution)

 

Ooo, I don't like this issue....

This is my 2nd DI engine & I'm quite familiar with the sewing machine clicks, ticks, & clunks. These are usually coming from the injectors, high psi fuel pump, or one of several emissions related subsystems. However, about a week ago I noticed a clicking noise that's consistently tied to the fuel demand of the engine, it begins typically around 2000-2500rpm. It's highly repeatable & the sound intensity is also tied to fuel demand. The frequency of the clicks is tied to engine rpm's but I can't distinct whether the noise quits above a certain rpm because the engine, exhaust, & road noise drowns it at around 4500rpm.

I'm going to put a set of chassis ears under the hood & see if I can locate it but if anyone knows of a previous instance, please let me know.

Thanks,
Wormwood

 

VIN# 2069 built Oct 2013

My car has the exact same problem plus memory seat issues. I too love the car!!!

 

VIN# 2069 built Oct 2013

My car has the exact same problem plus memory seat issues. I too love the car!!!

The head unit was fine until 1500 miles, then I am experiencing all the same issues as KDNVETTE

 

VIN# 2069 built Oct 2013

Me too,,,,

The issue with a lot of GM service departments is that they do not have a clue ( I just spoke to the 3rd one yesterday) the adviser actually told me he does not know and that he has to take the car in next week and then call the GM tech line and find out the old fashion way,,,what the heck happened to computers...LOL

Clearly we know a lot more by driving the cars and participating on this AWESOME FORUM!!!

Now seriously....the dealers and the consumers should work out of the same database so we can keep our cars up-to-date with the minimum trouble possible and safer for us the consumers and GM's better reputation as a cutting edge auto manufacture and consumer driven customer service oriented company.

GM has recently produced amazing product across all of the car brands, I am proud to owned American awesomeness!

Let's tweak it a little more and make it even better, so we do not have to worry looking to our brothers and sisters in Asia and Europe

 

Last night the display went to Clock while the radio was playing. No controls could make the screen work. Could change radio stations on steering wheel and volume up and down but it wouldn't show on the screen. On off button on screen wouldn't work either. Had to shut car and open door to shut radio. Start car again and radio comes on but screen is still frozen on clock. Anyone else see this before?

 

I have this same Problem only one on my mp3. but on my USB some songs play 3 or 4 times?????
please let me know, if theirs a fix....
thank you.

 

Sandisk?

 

Just sent you a PM with the appropriate info on trying to get some info (especially for the HVAC issues) to my dealer for the updates. I just talked with the dealer and they are unaware of any updates available for the C7 even though CCS contacted them more than a month ago.

Thanks.

 

I have send a PM to Kelly and received no reply . Are some PMs not getting through?

In any event can anyone in Customer Service help me? All I would like to know is what Glue or bonding agent is recommended for repairing the open glue seam on my rear fender. Nothing is cracked and the dealers body shop says it was because of lack of sufficient glue that caused it to open up. This simple fix they say will cost $150 to repair and I must pay. I believe it should be repairable for a squirt of epoxy and a small clamping unless there is some secret special glue. The dealer does not know and the body shop does not want to say what to use. The area rep says the separation was my fault because I hit a bump in the road and the whole rear quarter has to be replaced because of the open seam ( I guess he does not know the fender is shipped in 2 pieces that must be glued together anyway.) I am a very unhappy GM only customer ( from 1963 ( Vette) all the way to the present.

Several members here have PM me and said they have the same issue and GM told them to "take a hike" as one person stated.

Any help in finding out how to do this 5 minute gluing and what to use?

Thanks you very much for your great help to all on the forum.

Pete

Deputy Sheriff, LACOSO

 

Would really like to see a picture of the seam that has become debonded please.

"Evercoat PlastikWorks SMC Panel Adhesive" is the "glue" I believe you are looking for. It's about 65 bucks for a 40oz can (comes with a small tube of "cream hardener"). You can get it from an automotive paint supply store.

 

That looks like just the ticket. I am sure many people out there will want to know this so I replied here. This problem seems to bigger than I thought on this vehicle.

Thank you again ...I will take some pictures for you also. But is not much I have to pull on the panel to see the lap joint separation.

Thank you again,

Pete
Deputy Sheriff, LACOSO

 

[QUOTE=KenHorse;1586309011]Sandisk?

I just checked Sandisk, 8GB & 16gb "Operator Error"

azvetters