I’m still tuning. You would swear no one put a sniper carb replacement fuel injection on top of an LS before. So I don’t think it’s race ready yet. But I’m in that Corvette club, so I can swing by if your going to be there.

 

Love that hood Beejay, I think I need to get one for mine - I personally like it better than an L88 hood on our '79 body style, a bit more of a clean factory look imo. I like the vent, but as I have a cold air tray pulling air into the intake from in front of the radiator, I've been tossing up a pair of vents either side of the hump for my car.

 

That hood might just make enough room , to fit an LSA Engine in the c3.
bfit

 

I'll be there and my son might come along too, if he can get the day off from work. I signed myself up yesterday and sent Clay an e-mail today to see what class the LS motor puts the car into now. I was in 3 A/B last fall when we still had the small block.

Rick Jung and his son will also be out there with Rick's LS2 powered '68.

 

Like this?

 

That's exactly what I thinking!

 

Simple and tasteful. Looks sharp.

 

Congrats on the engine swap Bejay! It was a big job to get done, but you mastered it, and it looks great with the hood and the power of this alloy 427 is going to be a blast. How much money did you have to spent including the engine and how many hours of work went into the projekt? Great job!!!!!!!

 

No way am I going to total receipts on this project, or even attempt to count the hours. I probably could have put a good deposit and down payment on a C8.

 

Smart move.
I’ve kept a running total on my 73 resto/mod project and with all the parts and the purchase of my 73, I could almost pay cash for a base C8.

 

Lol!

I hear ya!

I LOOSELY keep a running total on my 71’ as it has evolved over the last 13 years. Not really because I care what I spent on it, more so just so I continue to realize how crazy it can get.

Whats weird is, my car is not some crazy restomod build or high end NCRS type restoration. Just a basic NOM street beater that has good paint... Its amazing how much money you can sink into these things. Lol



BeeJay, glad to see you got the car running well, hopefully you’re getting all of the bugs worked out of it. I like the yellow hood with the black stripe and the vent. That would look great on your car.

 

[QUOTE=ajrothm;1599877662]Lol!

I hear ya!

I LOOSELY keep a running total on my 71’ as it has evolved over the last 13 years. Not really because I care what I spent on it, more so just so I continue to realize how crazy it can get.

Whats weird is, my car is not some crazy restomod build or high end NCRS type restoration. Just a basic NOM street beater that has good paint... Its amazing how much money you can sink into these things. Lol

What?
Stop being modest.
Your 71 is beautifully done and the new paint is gorgeous.
And, you run in the 10 sec bracket!

 

My 427 hood badges arrived! I had a hard time deciding between early C3 placement, front of hood, and late C3 placement, rear of hood. This is what I decided. Maybe those pesky Mustangs will leave me alone now. I could have saved about $10 grand by doing this first.

 

Very nice and the placement is perfect

 

That won't stop them, owners of newer cars don't respect big blocks because they always run across stock ones. They will not think it's ls 427

 

Oh My Gosh! Hot Damn. I put my foot into it a few times today. This thing makes obscene power. I should have to get a background check to have this much power. These 315 tires cannot handle this. It was a pain and expensive, but today, I feel it was well worth it. 3000lb Corvette with 500 horsepower, no traction control, and no abs. Better than tequila, and I love tequila. 7000rpm is very enlightening. I'm still shaking. And I got 15mpg going to Pismo Beach and back.

 

Update! It’s been a couple of months and a couple of thousand miles, so I thought I’d update on a few things.
The belt tensioner makes an awful sound sometimes. I think it’s about to fail. Should I replace it with another stock tensioner, or is there something better to go to?
ive only gotten the oil really hot a few times, over 210 degrees, and when I stop hammering, the oil temp comes down to water temp or lower pretty quickly. I bought everything to hook up my oil cooler, I just haven’t had a need to hook it up yet. Maybe it isn’t needed. What is cooling my oil? Is the aluminum block a cooler? Is the oil tank? A C6 Z06 racer told me that an oil cooler is unnecessary, and my 427 Vert has what I call an oil heater. Water runs back to the oil filter pad.
This engine likes it rich. Forget 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio, I’m running 13.5 idle, 13.0 cruise, and 12.5 to 1 wide open throttle. And that may be too lean.
I tried running the MSD ignition controller in the LS7 modified position, then the LS7 stock position, and finally settled on LS1 stock position. We only get 91 octane premium here in Cali, and I’m running the Holley Sniper carb replacement without knock sensor. I tried octane boost, but it seems like a waste of money.
I’m burning thru oil pretty quick, about aa quart every other tank. How long to break this engine in. Still running 20W50 conventional oil until I feel it’s fully broken in, then I’ll put in some Mobil 1 20w50 synthetic.
im getting about 15mpg, The 383 never got that good, and never made this crazy amount of horsepower.
Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. This forum rocks.
Bee Jay

 

1) Just get a new stock tensioner, yours may have been a dud.
2) 210* oil temp is nothing...if its not getting too much hotter then that when running it hard, I wouldn't add the oil cooler, just something else to fail, leak, rob oil pressure. If your oil temps start hitting 250-260* when beating on the car hard, then I'd possibly add the cooler.
3) The oil consumption doesn't surprise me, but yours seems REALLY high if you are using a quart every 200-300 miles. There is no further break in that is going to solve this. If you've already made a few WOT pulls, then the engine is as broke in as its going to get. Besides, the oil rings don't "break in", they are already scraping the cylinder walls and dragging oil down from the beginning. The 2nd compression ring also helps with oil control and it does usually have a short break in.... as in, a matter of minutes. After a few WOT pulls, some deceleration and may 10-20 mins of run time, that sucker is as broke in as its gonna get.

Odds are, your piston to bore clearance is a little loose, and the long stroke on the 427 rocks the piston a bit, adding to the consumption. Normally, GM's "spec" range for what they consider "normal" oil consumption is a quart of oil per 500 miles. This is still really high consumption, but GM claims it to be acceptable. LS7s are known to consume some oil. If you switch to synthetic oil, it will likely consume even more. I'm not sure if the LS7 rocker arm bolts screw into blind holes or if they tap into the intake ports but, if they do go into the intake ports, make sure to have sealer on the rocker arm bolts

My 496" with a loose .005-.0055" piston to wall clearance, and short skirt pistons uses a quart about every 700-800 miles, depending on how much highway use there is. Even with a fresh plate hone and new rings, it consumed the same amount of oil. I'm not crazy about it but, it is what it is.

 

Thanks AJ. I took off the tensioner and lubricated the heck out of it. I replaced it and it’s not the tensioner, it’s the belt squeezing. I had to change the power steering pulley, so there may be a slight mis alignment, though it appears aligned. I think I’ll put this oil cooler away with the 383, until I can find a split bumper Camaro in need of an engine. I am still amazes that this aluminum radiator is cooling 427 cubic inches so well, and the oil stays so cool. I’ll put a few more miles on it before I switch to synthetic.

 

Bee Jay,

FWIW my 2010 C6Z06 owned since new and broken in gently for the first 500 miles (changed oil and filter) and progressively revved to 7000 RPM after 500 miles to 1,000 miles (changed oil and filter again)-use Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula Only, has never consumed any oil-ZERO. I have argued this point ad nauseum before and there are tons of folks on this forum that insist that no breakin is ever required for these motors. I absolutely do not buy that no breakin is needed. As to whether a proper breaking in your engine will solve your oil consumption issue is totally another thing.

I was explicitly total by my expert builder (he is a mechanical engineer educated) with my L-82 355 not to hammer it from the get go...6 years in now, zero oil consumption.

Just read an article on the 2020 650 Net HP Ford GT twin Turbo 3.5 V6 and Ford and their engineers explicitly told the owner that the engine should be driven gently for 600 miles before hard use. If this breakin is followed correctly, article stated that the engine will be bullet proof and will last for a long time..............go figure....

Folks should do what they want, but I always breakin any internal combustion engines, I own, even tractor and generator motors....everything....