Vin #987:
Infotainment buttons at the bottom of the screen stopped working. Turned off the ignition but stayed in the car and restarted. Same result. Switched ignition off again, went out of the car, closed the door and went to Rite-Aid to do some shopping.

When I went back in the car, infotainment buttons started working again.

 

I'm in the process buying a C7 . I have had a lot of new cars and they all had some issues. I had a new F355 lots of little stuff till one day the Slow Down lite and check engine lite came on. Sold it the next week lost 20k.
I had several M3s the last was a E42 had 3 differentials and the rod bearings replaced. Porsche GT2 and GT3, replaced the dash on the 3 and the fuel pump and rear control arm on the 2 and that was a 182k car.
From this thread i expect there to be some issues . I always try to keep a car away form the dealer as much as possible. Im fortunate to have good mechanical skills and a lift in my garage. so if its just labor i do it myself. if there's parts that are defective then to the dealer but only if its over $200 in parts. I just spent 4 hours removing the bumper and repairing a leaking headlight washer on my 6 mouth old Audi TTRS. It would have been 2 trips, plus a good change of collateral damage and i know its fixed.
I know its the dealers and factory responsibility under the warranty. In a perfect world they should have the skills knowledge and integrity to take care of all the issues. But that's not the way it is..sorry carl

 

VIN 1474-I have the same problem with my C7 of the car pulling to the right. I took the car to the dealer and the service department checked the alignment and said the alignment was within GM specifications and made no change in the alignment. They said the test drive after the alignment check indicated "road crown pull only" and was felt going both ways. I have since driven my car on various road surfaces and the car still pulls to the right at all speeds. I have contacted the owner of VIN 1719 who has the same problem and he said they realigned his car and changed the right tire and it did not solve the problem. He said a GM engineer is going to research the problem and get back to him in a week or week and half. I had hoped he would come up with a solution. I wonder if it may be a steering problem. I plan to take my car back again to the dealer to get a solution .

 

Ask for a readout of the alignment specs. Castor makes a car pull, see if its the same on both sides . If the right has more it will pull right. sometime you use a little more on the left to compensate for the crown pull of the road . also try rotating the tires side to side that will eliminate the tires if there a cause the one directional is only for rain. carl

 

Update: 11/7/13 new car smell replace with burned oil smell. Grease stains on new leather from tow truck driver, who also accidentally drop-kicked my key fob across a two lane road and into the dirt.
well three days later I finally heard back from the dealer today. They said that the oil leak is due to a stripped bolt in the oil pan and they are ordering a new oil pan. said it may take a while longer than normal to repair because they had to order special tools and none of their mechanics had ever worked on a C7 before. Very scary. I asked if they would call GM and speak to someone who had so they wouldn't be learning on my C7. I was told that ther is nobody to speak to because no one ANYWHERE has ever dropped the pan on a C7. I feel like Doc Hollywod. Also, it doesn't seem to make much sense since the car is three weeks old(or new?) and hasn't been in for service other than the dealer repairing the leak in the rear trans fluid cooler the day after i took delivery of the car. Also i first noticed the leak due to smoke and burning oil smell while in stop/go traffic on highway. When i did pull off there was a 4" puddle accumulated in about 20 minutes while car was off.

Unreliable: My wife and i cancelled our planned trip down to Key West this weekend. Even if we do get the car back in time we are not confident that the car will make it there and back. Not what I expected from a $72k car. Not feeling very good about buying her at this point.

I have spent as much time waiting for and riding in tow trucks and waiting in dealerships service areas as driving the car. The local dealership put me in a piece of crap (filthy and tiny) Mazda2 to drive. (Talk about adding insult to injury!) When I asked why they weren't putting me in a Chevy i was told because i didn't buy my car from them! GM has not been very responsive either. I wonder how much i would lose on this car if i sell it at this point with two service issues? I guess i am lucky to live in Florida (lemon law).

 

I have vin #774. and have approximately 2500 miles on the car.

I want to start by saying that I love the car. This is my 4th corvette.

I am experiencing the following issues.
1. Car pulls to the right.
2. The seat exit and return function does not work consistently
3, The dash brightness does not always work correctly at dusk
4. The center display was replaced and works except for one time where it went blank and returned after a couple of restarts of the car.

 

One other thing that can cause a car to drift to one side besides castor is the thrust angle. Thats the difference in the rear toe in from side to side. Lets say the rear should have 1/8" total toe-in, each wheel needs to be 1/16 toed in . One wheel could be 0 and the other 1/8th the total toe would be within spec but the car will pull or drift to one side. The extreme example is if you ever have seen a car dog-tracking down the road. Get a readout of the alignment from the dealer. The castor, camber and rear toe should be the same side to side. Don't settle for "its within specs"carl

 

Vin#835. I have a noise coming from the engine compartment when engine is at idle. The only reason that I mention it is the car is so tight and quite. It does not seem to fit with the overall quality of the build. The engine also produces a noticeable vibration at idle. What have others observed? Thanks. PS: i have 3500 miles on the car and do not remember having this noise/vibration initially.

 

I also had my instrument cluster go black, but it returned on restart of car

 

Same problem as #1

 

I'm getting better too. But I have stalled mine a couple of times! Talk about embarrassing!

 

The dealer called and asked me to drop off my car Wednesday to spend the day with the engineer. This will be printed and given to them.

 

This is chassis setup 101 you dont need to be an engineer. If they have castor,camber and toe even and it still pulls switch the tires side to side . Then you have eliminated all possible options. good luck.carl

 

Update on post 370...

Still no part to fix seat. They say maybe early next week. Ugh.

It seems that they just have just enough parts to build the cars but no stock of replacement / service parts for repairs.

 

Am I the first with what seems to be an electrical problem?

Picked the new C7 up on Friday. Vin 5354. Drove from Daytona to Orlando, about 80 miles. Everything was great. Turned to pull in to my neighborhood, left turn, seemed to be cliecking faster than normal, a few seconds later a fault indicator that the left rear turn signal was defective. I figured a blown light, called local dealer to take in on Monday morning. They have been servicing my Vettes for about 6 years. That evening when my wife got home frm work we took a brief 5-10 minute dive around the neighorhood. She commented about the brake light failure. Put the car in the garage got ready to go into the house, I waited about 60 seconds for the headlights to turn off. Looked in the car and it seemed that the little lights on all the indicators were still on as well as a ghost image on the Infotainment unit. Waited a minute or so, figuring there was just a delay to allow using radio or putting up windows after turning the engine off. The next morning (Saturday) I went out to drive the car and it was completely dead. After opening the hatch to get to the charge port I put it on the CTEK all night.

This morning after 24 hours on the charger, still completely dead. I spoke to the selling dealer this morning to see if they could pick it up today. I'm waiting for a callback.

 

Just got mine today via transporter.

Having noticed that the air pressure in the RF tire was high, I removed the cap to let some air out, and when I did, the air was coming out on its own.

Off course, the first thing I thought about is the worker that filled the tire and why he wouldn't have heard the air escaping?

I'll get it checked in the morning.

 

Sounds like you are missing the screw in valve (Schrader i think is the right term)

 

Thanks for the reply

I'll have them check/tighten since I don't have the part and I'll report back to confirm

 

they have a small tool to tighten or remove the valve you can pick up at the auto store . even if you don't need it thier good to have around .those things can get bent when they put air in the tire.good luck and enjoy your car.

 

It was that simple but, I still question how the worker filling the tire didn't detect the leak then

Thanks for your input