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** C7 Reported issues and resolutions thread **

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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 12:38 PM
  #601  
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My car is headed in for a reflash (4 modules) regarding the Dim Cluster issue many of us receive at Dusk and Dawn. Thanks to SG at BG and Kelly J. at CS for their follow up and dedication in getting this update out there. I will post results as soon as I get the car back tomorrow.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 01:01 PM
  #602  
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Originally Posted by BPhillyc7
My car is headed in for a reflash (4 modules) regarding the Dim Cluster issue many of us receive at Dusk and Dawn. Thanks to SG at BG and Kelly J. at CS for their follow up and dedication in getting this update out there. I will post results as soon as I get the car back tomorrow.
Thanks.
Just curious... is this reflash only for the Dim Cluster, or will this also address a few Infotainment concerns? Asking because I have an appointment next week for oil change and software upgrades to deal with the infotainment and Dim Cluster.

Can't wait to hear
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 05:38 PM
  #603  
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Originally Posted by rickriada
Torch Red Z51 VIN 2553. Has anyone had any problems with the rear hatch/window being hard to close/seat into the frame? I really have to shove/slam it downwards to get it to completely close. More often than not, I must complete the process by pushing it the rest of the way down into the frame by using one of my hands. Maybe it has to do with the latch adjustment or too much air pressure inside the car when the rear hatch is being closed and the passenger/driver windows are still up? I will bring it up to my dealer today on the way home.
I have the same problem with mine. I think it is so tight with air pressure. When I purposely leave my driver door open the hatch lid closes rather easily. Otherwise I have to slam it closed.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 06:00 PM
  #604  
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The hatch closing has been talked about in numerous threads. If you're slamming it to close it with the doors closed and windows up, you're going about it the wrong way. Just lower the hatch lid to the latch, then an easy one hand push is all that's required to latch it closed.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 06:09 PM
  #605  
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Originally Posted by CaptRat
The hatch closing has been talked about in numerous threads. If you're slamming it to close it with the doors closed and windows up, you're going about it the wrong way. Just lower the hatch lid to the latch, then an easy one hand push is all that's required to latch it closed.
, but don't try using the arm with the fractured wrist ... OUCH!
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 07:42 PM
  #606  
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Originally Posted by Torchred14
Ok so I'm not sure if my issue is an issue at all but when I open the drivers door the mechanism/ motor that releases the door cycles twice. On the passenger side it only cycles once. Has anyone else noticed or is this the correct way of operation?
My car does the same thing. Cycles twice on the drivers side and once on the passenger's.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:15 PM
  #607  
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Originally Posted by Mike1975az
Is anybody having any interior rattles or vibrations?
I had a rattle coming from somewhere behind the passenger area around the hatch. Upon investigation and pushing around back there I found that the side mounted speaker below the hatch was not pushed in all the way in some areas. It snapped into place and has been quiet so far.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:30 PM
  #608  
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Originally Posted by Edward Weaver
My car does the same thing. Cycles twice on the drivers side and once on the passenger's.
You are hearing the door unlock, and then you hear the gas hatch unlock.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:36 PM
  #609  
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Originally Posted by agapsdiver
The DIC dim lighting is a problem for me. VIN #1459. Near dusk, the DIC and gauges are dim at startup and remains that way for so time. The gauges light adjustment **** does not work when this happens.
Yes, I have this same problem also. Vin 4010.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 10:02 PM
  #610  
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Originally Posted by BPhillyc7
My car is headed in for a reflash (4 modules) regarding the Dim Cluster issue many of us receive at Dusk and Dawn. Thanks to SG at BG and Kelly J. at CS for their follow up and dedication in getting this update out there. I will post results as soon as I get the car back tomorrow.
Looking forward to your service. Please post as much info as possible since my dealer is clueless. I will have to lead him by the hand. Thanks
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 10:26 PM
  #611  
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Here it all is.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c7-g...completed.html
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 11:16 PM
  #612  
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Default Service Rear Axle - Loss of Power Steering

"Service Rear Axle" Message - Loss of Power Steering


1960 Miles - 11/09/2013 - Driving about 50 in 6th gear, Sport mode slight left hand bend.
Called OnStar - Stated it's nothing major and to bring it to the dealer to "Service the AWD System" No Codes

1963 Miles - 11/09/2013 - Highway 60 MPH 7th in ECO

Dropped off at dealership, Performed bulletin and topped off rear diff fluid. No Codes Stored

2314 Miles - 11/21/2013 - Backing into a parking spot and something in the front end "clunked" loss power steering for 3 seconds and message popped up.

2701 Miles -11/28/2013 - No turn, just accelerated from a stop, 3rd gear 25 MPH

2774 Miles - 12/04/2013 - Driving about 55 in 7th gear, ECO mode - Loss Power Steering, Airbag lights turn on, Pass Airbag light switches to "OFF" (Pass in seat), Lights Flicker and dim, Radio Flickers loss of sound, XM Radio says signal is blocked. Pulled over, power cycled.

2799 Miles - 12/04/2013 - Slow forward parking maneuver.

2870 Miles - 12/05/2013 - Backing into a parking spot, Lights flicker, Radio flickers, loss of radio sound. Loss of power steering. NO "Service Rear Axle message" Turned wheel back and forth and no power assist. Drove forward and regained power steering.

2902 Miles - 12/05/2013 - Backing into a parking spot, loss power assist for half a second.
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:01 AM
  #613  
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Originally Posted by talon90
At the request of members, I am creating this thread for ACTUAL owners to post about ACTUAL problems. This will get all of the issues together in one location and allow other owners and would be owners to learn about the issues that owners are experiencing or discovering.

What's allowed:

Factual accounts of issues you encounter as a real owner of a real car. Provide as much detail and documentation as you are able to talk about the issue.

Factual accounts or updates regarding resolution of issues that you or your dealer provided to solve a problem with your Stingray. If you solve a problem and post a separate update, please edit your original post that it was resolved and refernce the post with the update if possible.


What's not allowed (This will be strictly enforced):

Anecdotal comments about first year models.
Comments about other model year Corvettes (even if they may relate to current equipment.)
Stories or issues you read about on other forums.
Posting about a problem "your friend" had with their car.
Posting that "your car is fine" or "I didn't have that problem."


The intent of this thread is to collect data and provide information for people who own a 2014 Corvette Stingray. Hopefully we will see both problems and resolutions and allow a place for folks to learn how to deal with issues that they encounter. If you can provide content information (equipment group, options, etc.) about your car that would be welcome. If you can provide photos of the issue or video of the behaviour, that would be welcome. If are willing to post your VIN number, that would be helpful so that others with VIN's in a nearby range can relate.

Let's see if we can keep this thread on topic and make it a useful place for new and would be owners to learn what is going on.
are would be owners allowed to post on this thred ?
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:54 AM
  #614  
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No, the 1st line is very explicit as to this and the reason. "At the request of members, I am creating this thread for ACTUAL owners to post about ACTUAL problems. This will get all of the issues together in one location and allow other owners and would be owners to learn about the issues that owners are experiencing or discovering." It IS for would be owners to glean information but only for the owners to state the issues. The General Forum is for all other posters w/posts relating to the C7.
Originally Posted by Harts
are would be owners allowed to post on this thread ?

Last edited by Cruiter; Dec 6, 2013 at 08:58 AM.
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:08 AM
  #615  
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Originally Posted by mfitzge5
I had an issue getting mine to stay programmed then switched remotes, programmed everything again, as Driver 1 and now it all works fine. I couldn't find any designation on the key fobs for Driver 1 or 2, but switching the fobs worked for me.
Vin 4010, I also had this problem and I swathed the fobs, which by the way are not marked in any way which is 1 or 2. That did solve the problem.
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:48 AM
  #616  
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Originally Posted by KingMotley
I typically don't leave the car running when filling up the car, but my neighbors don't appreciate it when I bring the groceries in, bring the garbage cans in, or step out of the car to do anything with it still running. It is pretty annoying -- and stupid that you can't turn it off.
That's the whole point to the matter. It doesn't matter what you are doing with the car running and leaving the car with the key in your pocket. It should be a feature to turn on or off. If someone responding to this never has left the car running even for a few seconds while walking away from it, with the key in your pocket, I find it hard to believe. forget about just putting gas in the car, it could be for any reason period, and yes, my apartment neighbors did complain.
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 01:10 PM
  #617  
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Originally Posted by Edward Weaver
Vin 4010, I also had this problem and I swathed the fobs, which by the way are not marked in any way which is 1 or 2. That did solve the problem.
Check pages 24 and 25 of this thread starting at post 477, the FOBs are marked inside the key part. There are pictures of it. Hope it helps.

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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 02:30 PM
  #618  
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HI

I had struggled but finally got mine to work... I have a Genie as well. IT took several frustrating attempts and some trial and error- BUT i got it to work. If you an exact step by step account of what worked for me, I will be happy to send...
brianvalparaiso@ymail.com




Originally Posted by DirectionalMan
Like many others, I also had seemingly unresolvable issues getting my Homelink control programmed until a very friendly lady with Genie helped me solve the problem.

Equipment involved:
*2014 Z51 Stingray with Homelink on sun visor
*Genie PowerMax 1200 garage door opener with Homelink support

I followed the instructions provided on the Homelink website with no success because the sun visor button would never flash rapidly. I also called their support number but could not actually speak to anyone because the only support available for vehicles built after 2003 is a computerized step-by-step walk through which has no way to actually solve a programming problem. I thought this was extremely poor on their part. I attempted programming with & without putting the remote into Intellicode 1 mode with no success either way.

After a few days of frustration I decided to give Genie a call with little hope of success because Homelink is not actually a Genie service. I was able to speak to an actual person , a very friendly and helpful young lady who said she would help me even though Homelink is not actually their service or product. After going through the same steps I did for the previous days without any success again; she asked me to pull the clip off the back of the Genie remote I was using in an attempt to program the sun visor button with and give her the numbers stamped onto it under the spot where the clip goes. After giving these to her she said; "Aw, there's the problem". The last numbers on my Genie are "2.0.3". She then told me she was going to send me a different remote to use in programming the Homelink in my C7 because the original Genie remote roles the Intellicode codes so fast that the sun visor button could not catch it.

So after a few days I got the promised remote (At no charge) and was able to program the sun visor Homelink on the first attempt!

The model number of the remote she sent me is "GITR-3".
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 02:35 PM
  #619  
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Too funny...I have that same cover piece that loks like its warped. I debated complaining but haven't

Originally Posted by lggque
VIN #685

Piece of plastic hanging down under the front right side near door jam. Dealer is ordering a replacement part.
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 02:42 PM
  #620  
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Originally Posted by TAP101
Check pages 24 and 25 of this thread starting at post 477, the FOBs are marked inside the key part. There are pictures of it. Hope it helps.
No, the fobs are not marked 1 and 2. Most of us have both fobs marked just 1 on both...



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